2e0dtoeric

And please, before you plug it in to the mains, have it checked out by a competent electrician. Components that old can fail, and you really don't want to be electrocuted!

Rather like the typical child's layout, where the train and passengers decelerate from about 250 mph to 0 in a centimetre! 😛

Showing us the problem would be of more use than a pic of the real thing. Recalling the early days of N, I remember the buckeye style couplers had a rectangular plate at the back of the 'shaft', which went inside the box on the rolling-stock item. There was a small spring pressing the plate against the front of the box, but there was sometimes a bit of moulding flash either on the plate, or the box aperture, which caused the coupler to tilt upwards (or down, sometimes) slightly. A bit of very careful surgery with a really sharp knife fixed that. Mind your fingers, it is a very tiny moulding, and tricky to hold, and you can't really use a clamp, because the moulding is too soft, and will crush.

😛

In your photo showing wires 'soldered' to the track, there is almost no solder on the wires, and you have got solder on the running surface of the rails, creating bumps that will cause endless derailing problems.

Ditto very carefully. Put the DRY ballast down, then check that the points work, carefully removing any grains from between the moving blades and the fixed rails, then play trains for a few weeks. If everything is still working, only then use the diluted pva glue!

To avoid all the laborious maths, I just listen to the ticketty-tack of the wheels over the rail joints (doesn't work with 'orrible plastic wheels). If it sounds right, it's not far off the true speed.

Still no response from Chris Ansell so until he reports what the problem was, all this waffle is futile.

On page 1, RAF put - Be aware that newer Hornby decoders will have DC running set to off as default. This is to minimise DC runaway, but of course is inconvenient for DC users of DDC ready locos. - Disregarding the DDC typo - a DCC READY loco has the decoder SOCKET fitted, with a blanking plate - and NO DECODER, so it is a dc loco. A DCC FITTED loco has the decoder installed.

I've been pondering on getting one since they were first advertised, but can't really justify the expense, just for me to see. - Very strange audio on that first 'play me' demo link - it sounds just like rumbling/gurgling intestines!

There are many reports on here of the same problem. On my own t/table, I found that all the short stub-tracks that clip on around the periphery were about 1mm too long, so the rail ends were hitting the t/table bed track ends, and jamming everything up. It took a lot of fiddling about and trimming, to get it to behave. - I also eventually replaced the coffee-grinder mechanism, with it's unrealistic swoop and pause action, and replaced it with a decent 2 rpm slow-motion drive from that Chinese supplier of all things that might be useful!

The 'fibre' brush Jimbo refers to is a GLASS fibre pen. Do NOT let a child use it. I strongly advise you wear eye protection and a dust mask, as well - you really do not want fibre particles in your eyes or lungs! Vacuum the area when you have finished, too!

Jimy - do you turn your car engine off whilst driving along? No, of course not. You shouldn't do the same with your loco's. Slow down and stop, before turning the power off!

Two possibilities spring to mind - the clue being packed away for years - 1) are you trying to run an old old loco on modern track? You may find that the wheel flanges are too deep! 2) if the wheels have plastic insulating centres on one or both sides, the plastic may have decayed, and is allowing the wheels to slide in and out, throwing the back-to-back gauge out.

None of this waffle explains why Chris Ansell was dissatisfied by DCC. I notice he has not responded.

That's a very un-scale switch, WTD! 😛

As stated, not enough stock storage area. Remove the kink in the turntable access. From the other side of the turntable add several outlets to the loco 'shed' Outer circuit has no access to the station - move both islands up one space. Reverse one of the cross-overs bottom centre or left side. Get rid of the diamond crossing. It is blocking the diversion/passing loop. What size are your grid squares? Metres, feet? You put 9 x 8, but show 5 and a bit x 4 and a bit! Is your centre access hole big enough for you AND a chair and the controls? Imagine you have a bad back, an arm in a plaster cast, dodgy knees, and feel a bit wobbly - can you get in and out?

😛 Carefully avoiding the issue of more than one loco in a siding, and moving one but not the other! 😛 😎

If WTD has more than one loco parked on a siding, and he can move one but not the other, using analogue, he must have a lot of isolating sections! (and spaghetti with associated switches!)

I suspect everyone has missed that Mikky put - The radius of my track is 18". I only use flexi-track, so I don't know about set-track radii, but a 36" diameter turn is pretty tight for a modern model - so it is likely that the bogie and/or pony wheels are catching on the cylinders, and being forced off the track.

In what way are you dissatisfied with DCC? As you don't specify, we cannot offer any advice on the problem.

Too clean to be footplate crew! 😛

I don't have one of these models, but I think you will find, if you remove the screws holding the weight in, there is a groove for the wires, and the speaker will easily slot in. - Someone is bound to jump in now, and say I'm wrong! 😛

Chrissaf got in first. Also - if that black stripe is a wall, lower right, inside the curve, it is too close to the track, and rolling stock will hit it.

What controller are you using. There are reports of certain controllers not behaving with a small assortment of decoders. - Please don't misunderstand me, but your uninformative post is a bit like phonng up a garage in Kent, when you live in Scotland, and saying "My car is making a funny noise, what's wrong with it?" We cannot see or hear what is or is not happening - we only have your words to guide us. 😆