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For under-board wire 'hangers', I use plain ordinary cup-hooks! An alternative is the favourite zip-tie, just don't pull it tight, then you can thread more wires through later, if needed!

So this comment was not about the Hornby email address, it was about the price of a product. Once again, a misleading, uninformative title for a thread. Come on, Guys and Gals, let your header indicate what you are on about!

Almost totally irrelevant, but I agree with not believing the babble-channel. I was looking for set-up guidance on a new bit of kit - nothing at all to do with railways - was watching one that looked promising, but then noted that he couldn't even get the product name correct, either in the text or his speech, and it is only two letters, a central digit and a mathematical symbol!! (X9D+, if you wanted to know!). He managed several variations of the possible combinations. 😮 Bin!

It will sound a bit odd if you put a diesel decoder into a steam loco, though! 😛 I suppose you could tell anyone who comments that it's oil-fired, not a coal burner!

Your diesel service headshunt off p14 needs more thought - re power feed to it! (Unless you are going full DCC with a BUS, of course!)

Ah! The TTS sound of silence! 😛

I think it was in Signal Box, on this forum.

First off, you must have long arms if you can reach across a 4' board! You could add a duck-under hole in that area to the right. - If you go to page 2 of this thread, you can find an almost identical request there - Modelling terrain -What is the best source of learning How-to-Do ?

Timbo - please do NOT use the blue button with the white arrow, this is a repeat last post button, and we have been trying to get it removed for years! Scroll down to the empty white area below the header title, type in there, and send with the GREEN button that says REPLY. All newbies fall into that trap!

Don't forget, running the element dry results in it burning out.

Margate is too far to travel - - - so , no!

If you really are using passing-contact switches, then they aren't passing, but are staying switched on! This is one of the occasions where a CDU would have saved your motors, as once they have 'fired' they can't charge up again until the switch is definitely off! There are two kinds of surface mount motors, do you mean the one that goes in the little house, or the slimline one that clips onto the point. I suspect the sleeper spacing of the old steel rails is slightly different, so the slim-line ones won't clip on. The bigger one that hides in the house will probably fit as a direct replacement, or if not, and your point has a hole in the tie-bar, then you can drive them with a wire rod, with the ends kinked up like a long shallow staple. - Edited to correct a typo

Have a look at the Gaugemaster range. PWM was intended for the older heavy motors, that could be a bit 'sticky' to get them turning, so needed a 'kick', especially when running very slowly. So PWM gives them lots of very short kicks! (which can make them buzz!)

N gauge loco's run on 12v dc, just like OO or O. Pulse Width Modulation, is not good for the small motors, though. Do you understand how it works? If you do there is no point going into an explanation!

I don't use Railmaster or a pc to play trains, but - a thought. Is your vent van hard-wired to the bus, or just standing on the track somewhere? If just standing, it might be getting a dodgy connection, and receiving corrupted data - the vent van equivalent of dc run-away? Do you have a choke on your bus? Perhaps a random noise spike is triggerng the vent van?

Slowshunter - are you trying to reply by using the Blue button with the arrow, this is a repeat post button! Scroll down to the empty white space, type your reply, and use the GREEN button that says reply! Thanks. - To answer your question - have a look here - Modelling terrain -What is the best source of learning How-to-Do ? on page 2 in this section!

Try railway junk-sales! 😛

Dooters - please be advised that it is against forum rules to try to sell anything on here. Asking advice on how to is fine, though. As stated above, it is worth what someone will pay for it. The Airfix loco in the smaller box look like an American loco, but no identifying number is visible. The Hornby Collectors guide shows this set as - 1974 - Express Passenger Set R543 http://www.hornbyguide.com/flags/uk.gif Train Set: Express Passenger Set (Overall Train Set page) Category: Train Sets http://www.hornbyguide.com/category_images_small/set.jpg Model Information: Without Power Controller. Stop at the station to change passengers - then on to the destination, making sure the level crossing gates allow right of way to the train. A Hornby Power Unit is recommended for this set. Sets Produced: * 12,200 * Information from Triang & Hornby, The Story of Rovex, Volumes 1, 2 and 3 - Pat Hammond Year: 1974 Catalogue Number: R.543 Year Information: Contains Power Clip, Tunnel, Station, Level Crossing, Large Oval of System 6 Track and Uncoupling Ramp. Publication: Hornby Railways - OO Gauge Scale Model Catalogue:Edition 20 Publication Type: Catalogue Publication Edition: 20th Edition http://www.hornbyguide.com/publications_small/catalogue1974.jpg Logo & Box Design: http://www.hornbyguide.com/hornby_logos/hornby_logo_1975_small.jpg http://www.hornbyguide.com/hornby_boxes/hornby_box4.jpg UK Price List: £14.50 Aust Price List: --- Can Price List: --- Model Ranking: Current: 1610 - May 2019

If you can remove the chassis frame that holds all the axles in, do so. then - Clean up all the muck from the axle, and the axle-hole in the wheel. Make yourself a paper spacer that is a very tight fit to the axle, and fit it. Locate the wheel onto the axle, using a wheel-gauge for spacing, and to ensure the wheel is 'square'. Make sure the quartering is correct unless the wheel on the other side can still be adjusted. Ensure that the wheel is centred on the axle. Mix some slow epoxy, and squish it into the gap between the axle and the wheel. Let it cure. Hope you got the spacing and quartering right, because that wheel is not going to come off again in a hurry! The paper spacer is just insurance so you don't glue the wheel or axle to the chassis! (or wheel-gauge!)

Please, folks, use meaningful titles for your query - thanks. 😛

Another very vague thread title.Please, folks, use an informative header for your query! 😛 Did you mean the back-to-back measurements of the wheels? If so, there is a gauge you can buy for that very purpose.

If Keith has 'stay-alive' decoders fitted, they would ignore the momentary interruption to power anyway!

Check that the valve gear works freely BEFORE you put the gear back, and again after - helps to eliminate problems! :-)

Ditto - and a caution - don't get too ambitious for your first layout. Keep it fairly simple, and get to know how DCC works. For best reliability, it is essential that you keep the track and loco wheels and pickups clean, or you get very strange behaviour, where a loco suddenly shoots off, uncommanded, at max speed. That is because the decoder has 'seen' corrupted data, and reverts to analogue operation, which is giving it a 16v input! There are a lot of posts in here about track-cleaning. Also have a good read of the 'pinned' header post in this section - Getting Started, including Track Extension Packs

It's not just the flangeways - the track chairs can also cause the old-style large flanges to 'rattle' across them. You probably won't notice much, with the comparatively heavy loco's, but the light rolling-stock will give your passengers a very rough ride, and your milk tanks will be delivering cheese! 😛