2e0dtoeric

Colin - if you phoned GF, and were answered by Peter Graham Farish, why were you chatting to Peter Graham Garish? - The only Grafar gear I recall was in N gauge, the 57xx often referred to as the coffee-grinder, because that's what it sounded like, and the four-wheel trucks that were so light they took 'short-cuts' across any curves in the track!

Contact Hornby, they might consider a warranty repair, depending on how long you've had the Elite.

Looking at Chrissaf's freeze-frames, second image of the right side of the loco - On the piston slider guide, there is a diagonal rod poking down from the very top. I don't have this loco, but I think that rod should be inside the black tube just under the footplate - I think it is meant to represent either the reversing gear, or the valve timing linkage. I've just looked at my King, but the valve-gear is totally different.

Not lions roaring, elephants bugling etc, then? I was thinking of a vent van with the appropriate ambient noises!

Colin put - sometimes the parts in the Service Manual are very often out of scale I'm sure I've put on another thread in here about the service manual for my car (yes, off-topic!) it lists the values of all the fuses in the circuitry, and what they protect, but doesn't say or show where the fuse box IS in the vehicle! - edit for a typo

It's a shame that Margate is so far south! re R3772 Class 156 'Spirit of the Royal Air Force', As the presentation model was a one-off (it says so in the text) - how come there were two? :-)

Why incredible question? You'd be surprised/horrified how many readers don't think of the obvious first! It's no more incredible than an experienced poster NOT using the green reply button, but hiding his comment in the trimmed repeated post. 😛

Can't find a replacement motor is a common problem - even with brand new releases! 🫨

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A more informative title would help you to find it again later. Something like - Programming track wire.

I can't comment on that, but beware - if you USE this model, the gold plating will wear off!

In your post at 1312 on Monday, in the overall view, you have a curved tunnel at the top left. Have you thought how you are going to rescue any derailments in there, as the entrance is too small to get a hand inside! Also, don't forget the overhang of rolling-stock on corners, the outside edge sticks out wider than the track, and the inside centre also overhangs, but on the inside, a lot further than you'd anticipate - and depending on the radius of the curve.

16v AC is usually labelled uncontrolled, and is intended for operating point motors, etc, with the appropriate momentary contact switches.

Most DCC modellers have discarded plates from when they fitted decoders. Just ask if anyone near you has one going spare!

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As a small development of Chrissaf's drawing, what you could also do is add a couple of legs to the fixed frame, by the hinge-line, and going down to the floor, to help support the weight when the layout board is raised. Find where the floor trusses are, and place the legs so the weight bears directly onto the trusses. Peel the carpets back a bit, and look where the floorboard nails are - the boards run at 90' to the trusses, but you probably already know that! 😛 Don't drill holes in the floor, there may be mains wires or plumbing beneath you!

Welcome to the forum, Fatman. First off, you've posted this in the wrong place. I've asked for it to be moved to the proper location. This section is for website faults! (The mods can remove this line when they move the query). - Now - to your question. It is probably from the very front of the loco bodyshell, where there are tiny holes for the headlights - but that is a guess, as you don't say what shape the piece is, or what the model's Rxxx nujmber is. It could equally be a cab window! We cannot see it, and can only go by what you tell us!

Track board - has to be light enough to be portable for your purpose, and yet stiff enough so it doesn't flop about! There are lots of articles on here and in magazines over building them from ply frames with a ply top. 5 x 7 feet - be aware that for that size you need access all the way around, or a duck-under bob-hole in the middle. You cannot possibly reach that far! 2 feet/2'6" at best, before you start squashing things at the front of the board. Set-track or flexi- entirely your own choice. Flexi can be a bit tricky, as you then need a cutter, because when you bend it round a curve, the inner rail becomes longer than the outer (trigonometry!) and needs trimming. It also needs pinning down well, or it tries to straighten out again! You can mix flexi and set-track. Set-track is code 100, so make sure if you use flexi as well, you get code 100, not 75, or you are making bumps in the track and problems for yourself! On such a small area, I wouldn't bother with a raised section, unless it is a completely separate circuit, as modern-build loco's aren't keen on hills. Again lots of comments on this on different threads on here. Try to avoid going below radius 3, because modern large steam loco's (Scottie) don't like R2, but the smaller shunter types will be happy on it. If you make a tunnel, make sure you can either reach in, or the top lifts off, because you can guarantee that something will derail inside if you can't get at it!

And can you get round all three sides of each half? You cannot reach over 4 ft of board to reach a derailment, or to add decorations! Have a practice on your dining table - line up an assortment of non-spill items along the edge, then see how far over you can reach without disturbing the objects!

The moral of the above post is - don't make things TOO permanent, because there is ALWAYS something you want to change after some usage! (and too temporary means it keeps going wrong!)

I use flexi-track, and fastened it down with double-sided sticky-tape - - MISTAKE! The tape allows the track to creep, over time, and if it gets hot (ie the summer's day) it lets go! It's ok for a temporary 'fix' while sorting out curves and alignments, but some form of pin is more reliable, once the layout is established.

All I put was that the two systems achieve the same thing by different methods. I wasn't insulting or calling anybody. PuffingBilly said that DCC was rubbish, with constant short circuits, not me. I've not had one single short, or faulty loco, on my DCC layout. I'll say no more on the subject.

PuffingBilly put - incompatibility, continual short circuits, and the extra cost - What incompatibility? Continual short circuits? That's bad wiring or bad track layout, not DCC controllers. Extra cost? ONE controller, NO switches, almost no wires (depending on the size of the layout). It's like claiming that an automatic car is better than a manual shift car. They both get you from A to B, but using a slightly different method, and it takes a little time to learn how to work it.

Digital and analogue - on the same layout?? Lots of comments about that on these threads - basically saying - DON'T! Read up about it, before you make a silly and expensive mistake!

A couple of double-track tunnel portals, and a Blue Duchess! (also the MOT for my 'wheels' but you didn't want to know that!)