2e0dtoeric

That is a very old controller - and I would strongly advise that you have it checked for safety BEFORE you plug it in. Old components will deteriorate with age, and you really don't want 240 volts shooting up your arm! Older loco's are quite power hungry, and a modern cheapo Hornby controller won't be powerful enough. There are much better units available from other companies, but as this is a Hornby site, we cannot name them! Old loco's may not run very well on modern track, either, as the wheels are much coarser. The motors and gears probably want a good service, clean, and lube, and maybe new brushes, as well, if they have been standing for a good while.

Which controller, Colin? Is it the decoder or the motor that is buzzing? Try a factory reset of the decoder. The previous owner might have been messikng with the cv's.

You need an adapter. Hornby use 8 pin decoders, Bachmann use 21 pin.

I spent four hours trying to access the site, and kept getting a blank white screen. Gave up at midnight. Tried again at 6 this morning, and they appear to have all ben solld. Oh well.

RC4 doesn't say what controller he/she has. Buzzing loco's that don't move suggests it might be a DCC controller - in which case, if he/she persists, the motors will get fried!

Wire is wire, and it doesn't matter that much! Don't use 'bell' wire, though, for anything. It is a single-core, rather stiff wire. Nothing wrong with that, but it is prone to fracturing inside the plastic sheath, and you will spend hours, if not days, trying to find the fault!

There is a way - watch this vid! -

Be aware that the Hunts are 'handed', remember your school days - like poles repel.

Shame. I used to read it now and then - not for the intellectual content, but to see how inane some of the questions/comments were. Now, I suspect they will just spill over into the 'General' thread, unless 'stamped on' promptly.

Hard to see the resistor colours, but it looks like brown, black, brown, which equates to 100 ohms, unless my resistor code memory has slipped.

I've had to reset my password AGAIN to get in. I'm not posting much, if anything, apart from this! - on here any more. I still look in now and then, but see the same old questions going round and round. I've been warned off before for being rude when I posted something on the lines of - It's already been asked a zillion times, look it up! How Chrissaf doesn't lose his patience, I don't know - he must have a file of answers ready, and just copy-pastes it - over and over! You can find me on the other forum, if you want me - which is unlikely. Best wishes.

I suspect (hope!) that Jane means that you should carefully clean out the tiny gap between the segments of the commutator. DO NOT break the tiny wires that feed the motor coils! If you do that, the motor is dead! - You say 'ordinary Hornby dc controller' - which one, the dead cheap trainset one with about as much power as a dehydrated greenfly, or a decent one - an H+M or similar?

RAF put - known to cause brain damage. We're all brain-damaged or we wouldn't be here! 😛 Standard lego bricks pressed onto the base-plate make perfect right-angles for holding corners straight! (Mind you don't glue the walls to the lego, though!) Cyanoacrylate (superglue) is good for sticking tiny details to your fingers!

I do - medium speed for about half an hour - in each direction. Some say you should - others don't bother. It seems to depend on how hard you want the loco to work! (How many trucks/coaches behind it).

I don't think there is one! You might try Loksound, or other 'high-ender' to see if they can burn one for you, but you will be looking at £150 for a one-off. Unless you are really fussy, find one that sounds vaguely like a railcar, and use that. Are you talking about the steam or diesel railcar, anyway?

I have a VHS tape player to usb adaptor. Problem is, I got it from Maplin. So that doesn't really help!

If you hunt back in the threads, Chrissaf published his own design for one that worked better, and didn't electrocute the user! - Let's see if this link works - - - no - it didn't - - I've got it as a pdf, but it won't copy across.

Atom - up to a point I agree with you - steam outline and tts don't go together very well, because, as you say, they don't synchronize BUT - if you get the top-end decoders, they can be 'tweaked' to match, if they don't straight away.

Porsche 911 gt aka squashed volkswagon beetle - where can you possibly use it's potential in the UK? Most days, you'd never get out of first gear! (unless you reversed!) Horrible things. You have to be a contortionist midget to get in, and the windows are so big you can't see out! The only real advantage is - you can drive underneath an artic trailer without scratching the roof.

Probably not a lot, financially. You might find some on e-bay, but HO is not a common UK scale. Value - depends on the condition of the item, does it still work, are there any wear marks, is it the original colour, are there any missing pieces, is it in it's original box, is the box in good condition. You would need to identify each item, using it's correct name and number. The generic 'box truck' - or 'coach' is not sufficient. It would also help if you could identify the manufacturer, and the manufacturer's identifying model number. (Hornby would be Rxxx, where xxx is a series of numbers and possibly additional letters, identifying specific differences).

Last time I went there, It was called Railway Junction, I think. Have they replaced that awkward narrow double door and step down? I presume it has changed owners.

I use a hyphen - between lines - that seems to work for me, and it can clearly be seen if you want to edit.

Two comments. 25 watts is too big for the tiny circuit boards you will be dealing with, and you want one with a 1mm tip, and 1mm multicore solder to go with it. Also, with a dc track power, every time you stop the train, all the lights will go off. You have to decide if the hassle justifies the work.

Like all franchises profit first, second, third and fourth. Customers come a lowly fifth. I used Virgin once, to go from Warrington to Wigan, when my car was in dock, and I had some business to attend where my presence was needed. If I recall, the train was 25 minutes late, and took 35 minutes for that short distance I could drive up the motorway in about 10. (Not counting the time taken to get to and from the stations to start and destination, at each end!) So, over all, about two hours for a 40 minute door to door trip. How long it took to get back, I don't recall. I think we stopped at every signal.

Air inlet for the Gas Turbine, I think!