2e0dtoeric

It should be fairly straightforward for a man with your skills. Just leave one of the middle walls out, and maybe add a doorway from one 'bay' to the other. If there are any windows in the middle wall, make them really filthy, because in real life they'd almost never be cleaned.

There's a typo I just spotted in my previous comment - too late to edit - it should read - building the loft layout. 😳

Go onto You-tube, and look up Jennifer Kirk's building the lot layout series. She used these foam gradients - but on a much larger layout than you are proposing. What the useful life of these foam products is - is not known, they are too new. It IS known that foam or sponge 'ballast' under track doesn't last. After a year or so, it crumbles away.

Clearly Eric never watches Morse, Lewis or Endeavour. Good guess - no I don't. I've put many times that I don't possess a tv.

Both - WTD! We only have a WHS and a Waterstones here. All the 'real' bookshops have gone.

Ah - someone has edited the header title! 😎

Never heard of it! 🤐

Put a 4 amp fuse in the line, if you can find one! 😎

What's the 'Horbny' club? 😛

I would like to add that my selects and other elite are working OK I hope you only have ONE controller connected to the track! You can connect Selects to the Elite, to use more controllers at once, but most NOT connect two (or more) to the track!

It's possibly picked up some debris that is making the mechanics stiff. Have a good look for fluff, muck, and stray track pins on the underside of the loco.

Just a thought - try allocating a number lower than 65 to one of the stubborn loco's, see if that kicks it into life. Maybe there's a silly bug in the system that stops higher numbers being recognized.

I don't have any Collets, but if there are no screws underneath, they probably just clip together. You will need several slivers of (for convenience) acrylic, to work into the 'pegs' of the clips, while you coax the body off the chassis. (Old credit card, etc, will do too).

Class 08's DO creep along! They aren't racing cars or express engines! They were low-geared, to develop the torque needed. Class 09's are a bit faster, maybe 20 mph flat out. The stop-start you report could be dirty track, dirty wheels, or a bad electrical supply to that piece of track. Are you using a DCC BUS, or a plug-in power rail, and fishplates, etc, to conduct the power? What controller are you using? What decoder are you using? What R number is your 08?

Thanks, Rog. 😎

Then, of course, is the island platform! - In the days of the 'Walkman' cassette player, they were bi-directional. When they got to the end of the tape, the mechanism reversed, repositioned the head, and played the 'other side' going backwards - ad infinitum, or until it was switched off or the battery died! - Going off-topic - the convention for playing records was a clockwise rotation, starting at the outer edge, but cd/dvd's start in the middle and work outwards! I'm not sure which way they rotate, as they are hidden in little slots! - Anyway - to drag this back onto almost topic, with DCC forwards is the direction the loco is facing, irrespective of which way you set the controls. If your loco goes forwards right to left, you stop it, physically rotate it 180', and set it off again, it still goes forwards, but left to right!

Very jerky - and you almost missed the runner 27 seconds in! :-)

Which region? Different companies had different colour mixes for their 'greens'. Throw in sun-bleaching, and age, and even two loco's painted from the same can of paint would be different colours! - If you think loco colour-matching is a problem, try painting the side of an aircraft carrier! If we started at the 'sharp end', and continued to the stern, then saw we'd missed a bit at the front, the touch-up would be a different shade! After a while, and a few rust-spot tickles it would look like a patchwork quilt!

Live steam Pug next?? 😛 (retires to nuclear fallout shelter!)

It depends - is the usual answer to a vague question like that! Which Hall have you got (Rxxxx) Does the box say it is DCC Fitted - which means there is a non-sound decoder installed - you have to unplug that, and fit a sound decoder and speaker. or does it show DCC READY - which means there is a decoder socket already fitted, but it has a blanking - jumper - plug in place so it will work on dc. If so, all you need is a decoder that is sound fitted, you have to remove the blanker, fit the decoder AND the speaker, and away you go. - If it is an earlier one, you either have to hard-wire the decoder in, or fit a socket, before you can proceed. There are lots of threads in here on doing that.

Yes, of course. Silly me! Where's my white stick? 😳

Colin, before you start shooting insults at me, read what I wrote - The only Grafar gear I recall was in N gauge - - - Note - I recall - - I didn't say there were no others! I'm not going to turn this into a sniping match, so I'll say no more on this thread.

Replaced DCC factory fitted decoder with new Hornby TTS decoder Why? If the decoder was a loksound or similar, and you replaced it with a TTS, that's like putting a mini engine in a Ferrari!

And what nobody ever considers is these 'switched-mode' devices are made as cheaply as possible, often not fitting adequate rf noise suppression, and thus wiping out radio reception for a significant distance around them, just like the accursed 'wifi over mains' range extenders, called PLT - and various other names - not all repeatable! Look it up, don't take my word.

Mine - around 1956, was clockwork and tin-plate, running (sometimes!) on tubular tin-plate track. I recall it used to derail a lot on the corners, due to the approx 200 mph speed!