2e0dtoeric

Virtually the same thing - I glued a magnet into a plastic box.

Clearance distance also depends on the radius of any curves you have on the layout - the tighter the curve, the longer the shank of the kadee needs to be, to avoid buffer-lock.

LMS fan - diodes wouldn't work, as they only allow current to flow in one direction, so you have immediately 'killed' the ability to reverse! A 'flowing' diode only drops about half a volt anyway, and to pass the current of half an amp, would need a pretty big case, so you run out of space again! If you have a 'proper' transformer/rectifier power supply - not a modern switch-mode - have a look how physically big the rectifier diodes are, to give you a clue.

Mandrake - with all respect - be VERY careful reviving old mains-powered equipment. Components and insulation within can deteriorate with age, and at the very least give you a nasty electric shock. Unless you have the skills and knowledge to check and inspect, please get them checked over by a qualified electronics person BEFORE you plug it in!

Does the 'dummy' car have a motor, or is it a real dummy that just makes noises and flashes lights? I don't have one - not appropriate on my layout!

No, hard-wired Elite. No Railmaster, no other computers (except what's in the plastic clop-clop box). 😛 Points are digital, too ( the pink kind with fingernails on, right now!)

St1ngr4y hasn't watched any of the operating videos I've put on various places! 😛

Very interesting - but what happens if a potential user does NOT have Railmaster installed? (I don't, for one!)

Do as you see fit, RDS. I'll confine myself to not responding to badly phrased or silly questions/comments, in future.

No, too far.

The metal wheels I have are natural metal - and right now they are rare as hens teeth to get hold of! (This is where someone jumps in and says - Oh, so-and-so's has dozens of packets of them!)

surface mounted points - I presume you mean motors! I hope the points are on the surface. Underneath the board could be a bit tricky! 😛

Better still use a separate power supply for the CDU, then you aren't taking anything from the track supply. What controller are you using, and what power supply? If it's the Select, and the 1 amp, there's your answer. Give it the 4 amp supply intended for the Elite AND a separate supply for the CDU.

Can't help with the problem, but you should be able to find enough room! What motor does the BB use? and is a standard decoder (half an amp) beefy enough for it?

In my defence, Howbi doesn't actually say which save feature he is waffling about! 😎

Size 13 on keyboard! 😳

I read your query as a NEW set, so take it back and exchange it. Of course, if you have taken the engine to bits, you have voided the guarantee.

Depending on the computer, you can go into 'settings' and alter the delay time. It's a useful tool if you write a lot of words on the pc, as I do, as a mis-hit, or a power failure means you only lose the last bit of what you wrote, not the whole lot.

If everything is in perfect, unplayed, condition, with the original box also in good condition, then it might be worth a small amount, but don't give up your day job and hope to live on the proceeds. Things are only worth what someone else is prepared to pay for it.

Not much to go on, there! Is the 125 a Hornby model? What's the Rxxx number, if known? What controller are you using? What happens if you put the dummy car on the track, but NOT connected to the power car? - As a new poster, you onl;y get two posts for the first couple of days, so don't waste your second post. Do NOT use the blue button with the white arrow, that merely repeats the last post. Scroll down to the empty white space, type your reply, and use the GREEN button that says reply.

You don't say how much space you have. You could have a sort-of prototypical end to end, and still watch the trains go by without fiddling with controllers, if you have an auto-reverse module fitted to the track. But - if you only have 2 or 3 metres length, you will soon get bored with watching the same engine and coach chug back and to every 30 seconds or so! (the same applies to a tiny roundy-roundy, too!)

I've not tried body couplers, rather than bogey, but I can say why it was done that way. You have to go back to the early train-sets, when very tight curves was the norm, and bogey couplers were a way of avoiding body-clash on the corners, without having enormous gaps on the straights. Once the standard was set, all later rolling stock had to match up.

Colin - you have answered your own question! As Hornby used the Dapol dies (according to you - did they?) to make the Pug, how would a new model, from the same dies, with the same livery be any different to the original Dapol one?

This question has come up before on here, but I don't recall the answer, as it was not of interest to me. If you are sufficiently determined, you might find the thread, or someone might point you to it.

Is the model new? It might need running in. What controller are you using? Have you cleaned the track, loco wheels and pickups? How are you connecting the controller to the track? One of those flimsy plug-in things, or proper soldered connections. If one of those plug- in things or a clip-on power track, have you removed the dc capacitor? (edit for a typo)