2e0dtoeric

Erratic behaviour could also be the usual bugbear of a dc power track or connector fitted! Open the cover, either between the tracks, or on the top of the plug-in power feed, and remove the component that is connected across the two power feeds.

Ah, I misunderstood your comment about the flap. There are several threads on here that show how it is done. - Chrissaf beat me to it, while the forum decided to put my words up!

As a ham radio person, I've never seen a three way on-on-on toggle either. A lot of the power boxes are also using a flashing yellow light as well, now, so the sequence is green - continue - line clear. flashing yellow - prepare to slow, the next signal is set to yellow (often where the next signal is not immediately visible) yellow - prepare to stop - next signal is at red. red - stop. - - - - (unless you are a Russian car driver, in which case it means go as fast as you can!) 😛

I think you are referring to the Shed Plate? (where the loco is/was based). The builder's plate is who actually built the loco.

Don't all those pins in the middle of the track get in the way, RAF? 😛 - Red, do you know of a handyperson in your area? If you explain what you want, he/she should be able to make a bar-flap for you, to fit.

It's probably not necessary, but as I have a lot of programmed loco's on the track, I find it easier to disconnect - just in case - when setting up a new loco on the programming track. I'd rather waste five seconds disconnecting two wires - than have to re-programme my entire fleet, if something goes daft! 😛

If you fancy a radio-controlled battery powered train, have a look at this - or this -

Check that the flat metal drawbar between the two cars is truly flat - it might be lifting the nose slightly. Check it can pivot freely on both cars, both sideways and up and down. Slacken the screws a bit, if needed. Are you running it too fast - like a scale 200 mph?

Look on You-tube for Jenny Kirk, until last year, she had a garden OO railway, but unfortunately the weather got to the wooden track bed, and it was falling apart.

I just saw an email from Rails - the Rocket has landed, and will be in the post to pre-ordered customers very soon. They are sold-out, so don't bother looking, if you want one! They're also offering, on pre-order, a Rails special run of the blue 2nd class coach/truck to go with the Rocket and yellow 1st class coaches.

I don't use RM, so I might be typing rubbish - BUT - perhaps it is set to 'shunting' mode, where it will only creep along? Also - in real life,the 66 isn't that fast, being limited to 60 or 65 mph, depending on the version.

As FB put, poor rail joints and muck! Guaranteed to give weird behaviour. Also check you haven't accidentally used a dc power-track - with a capacitor in it for tv suppression - that is totally ujnnecessary with modern tv's! The capacitor can corrupt the DCC signal, giving more weird behaviourf.

Ben put - Hi Folks After buying a Graham furnish class 66 with sound for £350 Would that be Graham Farish? In which case the loco is N gauge. I don't know if that alters the behaviour with RailMaster.

p.s. to Chrissaf's comments - then you need to briefly (very briefly) hold the loco down to prevent the wheels turning and quickly take your current reading. This is termed the 'stall test'. DO NOT do this with a DCC loco with the decoder installed! You will let the magic smoke out! Remove the decoder and fit a blanking plug, then do the stall test! - And can someone change the title of the thread to something more meaningful?

You don't state what the motor is. I'm assuming an older frame motor, XO4 or similar. It could be that the magnet has faded, thus causing the motor to be wound up to full power to get any traction, and as a result - has overheated the windings. This will have dried out the oil in the shaft bearings, causing more friction, and causing more power to be drawn! The magnet can be re-magnetized, and if you hunt around you'll find a link to someone who does it (or maybe someone will leap in with their boots on, and give the link).

You could always make a mould, get a resin mix, colour it to look like concrete, then cast your own! That would keep you occupied for about 15 years, then you have to lay the rails onto the sleepers! Have fun! :-)

Magnetic couplings only work one way around - try turning a truck round the other way, and the magnets repel instead of attracting!

As the cartazzi truck doesn't move, on modern-build steam outline loco's, don't bother fitting the 'display' flanged wheels. They MIGHT be ok on a nearly straight end-to-end, providing you have used 'express' points, not the tight curve ones!

Domestic management permitting, knock a hole in the wall, and have a two-room layout! 😛 I have a fairly large layout, bent into an L shape around two sides of the room. Six coaches behind a Pacific looks ok, seven is a bit iffy, and any more looks stupid, because the back end is going the opposite way to the front! I don't have any super-detailed stock, just ordinary dead cheap stuff, but I do have a loco (a 47) with one of those silly sliding couplings that only slides when it is off-load! I've found, with four-wheel trucks, that a mix of large (old) and small (recent) couplers is a disaster waiting to happen. It doesn't take long before I get a crossed hook that derails everything! Try to keep all your couplers the same size! I've been planning on fitting kadees to the end items of rakes, to get round that problem, but haven't done it yet.

https://www.jacksonsmodels.co.uk/hornby-r7277-layout-made-easy-large-corner-layout-complete-track-oo-gauge.ir It's just a dumb-bell continuous run double track, with a connecting end-to-end shunting puzzle inside, then a 90' bend incorporated. I've not built it - no desire to - but I can't see any difficulty, at a quick glance. What doesn't fit? Are you using the components list given with the plan?

As a very crude analogy - picture your HM as a garden hose, and the electricity as water. You have plugged in the hose to the water pipe (mains wire) and turned the tap on (the switch on the socket) so the hose fills with pressure. Because you haven't pressed the spray trigger (speed controller) the water can't spray onto the garden (the railway), but the pressure is still there. - Now it's a transformer/controller we are looking at - so the electrical pressure (called Amperes) is still there, even though the speed controller is set to zero. The transformer is still working to apply the pressure, converting the 240 volts to 12 volts. It just can't go anywhere. To take the pressure off, you have to switch the power off (turn the water tap off).

Gold is a very soft metal that wears away quickly, which is why it is mixed with other metals for jewellery purposes. (Measured in karats - the bigger the number, the more gold) Gold plate is a very thin skin of gold laid over a base metal. The thickness is measured in microns. Exactly how thick one micron is - I don't know - maybe a scientist can advise on that. So, yes - running your model will wear the gold away, down to the base metal. How fast depends on the hardness and thickness of the plating.

@atom - No, it would look slightly out of place on my British 'preservation' line - and I have no R1 curves, all my track except points is flexi! I think the tightest is approximately R4. I will admit to looking at a Garrett, though. (but not yet!)

You could always get a 3D printer, and make your own! :-)

Getting the Big Boy into a freight yard!