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ModelerXYZ

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Everything posted by ModelerXYZ

  1. All loco problems are fixable if you are prepared to fix them. First thing to do, turn the loco upside down and look around the axles. If you see any fluff or anything else that aint supposed to be there, pull it out with an appropriate tool. Try running it again. If it still shorts, pull the top off, and check again, a stray track pin could be caught inside and causing a short. XYZ
  2. I have one. Its a pretty useless track cleaner, but as Yelrow said, it does work well as a vacuum cleaner. Mine usually decorates a siding, it rarely makes it out of there, whereas my Sharge comes out when the track needs a clean. XYZ
  3. No idea. You are a pioneer, Try it and report back. If the screws are in the same places, it is likely that the shells can be made to fit. XYZ
  4. Hi Nicki and welcome to the forum. I would reccommend a HM2000. They are a versitile controller that can provide plenty of power for both trains and accessories. They also have the advantage of being able to power 2 circuits, which is essential as your collection and layout grow. There are many experienced modellers here, if you need help or advice, always ask, Someone will know. Happy modelling XYZ
  5. I checked out their website. No, I have had no dealings with them. XYZ
  6. Agree. Red and black are your pickups. Red one side and Black the other. Connect Red to Orange, and Black to grey. If you connect the Red to grey and Black to orange, Thomas will run the opposite way than he is supposed to. If you connect Red to black, you have a dead short and nothing will work, you will trip your controller. XYZ
  7. Its the gross weight. So if fully loaded, the waggon should be that weight. So if you have 20 21 ton waggons, fully loaded they should weigh 420 tons. XYZ
  8. Thomas, tip for you, you only need to press the green button once. Yes, Driving Van Trailer. XYZ
  9. Bee, If its automation you want, I believe stingray&RAF are working on loco detection systems. I don't like automation, I want to drive trains, which is why I reverted back to DC. I can't control more than 2 or 3, and I don't like the computer doing it. XYZ
  10. As a DCC layout, blocking is totally unneccessarry unless the layout is large enough to take up both spots of a double garage, or you can run more than 8 trains at the same time on it. (good luck with that...) Check that the fishplates are attached properly. The tops of the rails should align. If they don't, the fishplate is likely to not be attached properly. Plastic fishplates more than metal can easily only half go on, and that will make the joint uneven. I am assuming new track. On my layout, I used reclaimed track from a previous line, and that made problems with uneven rail wear. The best solution for that was a file, or i bent the fishplates to suit, (The equivilent of lift plates on a real line). XYZ
  11. Even Hornby customer care don't seem to have this part at the moment. Does X6171 actually work?
  12. Couple of points. DCC ready does not mean its DCC, it just has a decoder socket. So its an anolouge loco. Clean the wheels, and the track and service the motor. Check the coaches are free running. XYZ
  13. Try the severn valley Railway, I caught it there last year...
  14. Railroad models are more robust and don't have a lot of the detail, but you aint going to notice that while the train is going round. At the much cheaper price as well, its a bit more affordable to get them, and Railroad carriges are generally good runners. XYZ
  15. Simple way I would do it, as you only need to drive 1 train at a time is get a Double pole Double throw switch. Connect the centre two lugs to the track. Top one put as controller 1, Bottom as controller 2. To switch between them, toggle the switch to the desired controller. I have that on a few sections of my layout. I don't think its possible to do the 2 from the same controller because you need to be physically able to operate it. XYZ
  16. Yesterday. I found a Youtube video which clearly shows the white roof. XYZ
  17. It depends what you are trying to acheive with your layout. If you want to make a scale model of a station/area then a fictitious train is a no no. But if like me you just want something that looks good and runs well, I have absolutely no problem with fictious stock in a ficticious location. Run anything in whatever combination you want, and enjoy playing trains. XYZ
  18. Take off the bodywork and run him without his top on. Lubricate the axles and clean the pickups. Clean the wheels with Isopropol or meths and then lubricate the motor bearings. Its unlikely to be the chip if you aren't running DCC. XYZ
  19. Basically the controller output isn't man enough for the job. Common supply after the CDU should connect to the bottom of the switches. Red&Green wires to the holes. The common returns all connect together to the -output of the CDU and happy days. There is a diagram attached. XYZ
  20. ok, Thanks. I hope we can figure an equivilent part, then Thomas trains can return to my layout. (thomas himself has never left)
  21. They should do. Be careful the originals don't come off too. XYZ
  22. I use Hornby buffer stops, but i usually secure them in position with superglue so that they don't move when a train hits them, XYZ
  23. Having taken my Hornby Henry apart, On the service sheet the part required is the gear set x8849. It isn't availible in the shop. Ebay didn't find it either. Is there an equivilent gear set? XYZ
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