SteveM6

Strange comment - I’ve always used PayPal for Hornby purchases. edit: it shows as a payment option on my checkout page (checked 5 mins ago).

Fight Club. I’ll see myself out.

The point is that TXS decoders should only be searched for by the app so that they may be linked. The semantics of whether they link, pair, bond or mate for life is not really relevant.

Not as simple as that Colin. All those details are available on the manage device screen once it has been linked. But when you do the initial scan to link the device it will show a button for either linking or resetting with the device name (eg HM7000_abcd). What I am attempting to get across is that if you substitute the HM7000_ bit and replace it with a4c13800 you will get the reset code - in this example it would be a4c13800abcd As to why Hornby send an automated email, it’s probably just a courtesy thing confirming a successful link and to provide the code to those that can’t find it in the app.

Absolutely!! A very rushed photo (I know, it shows) to demonstrate where the information for reset codes can be found. And also a demonstration of what a screen looks like after servicing locos and fitting decoders. Another excuse is that I have a dedicated HM7k tablet without anything else on it so as not to get any interference on the app (overkill but a legacy of early testing). Consequently I can’t easily drop a screenshot onto the forum. But the photo serves its purpose.

On the Manage Devices page the reset code is clearly displayed as shown in the photo. Also note that the top of that page shows the decoder name as HM7000_BAC8. The reset code is the last four digits, converted to lower case and preceded by a4c13800. No external apps or searches required.

At 17:27 on 4th Feb you suggested going to the playstore to get a Bluetooth app to detect nearby devices. Your statement that "the HMDCC doesn't give you the reset code" is wrong. It is displayed quite clearly on the app. It can also be worked out as I have explained elsewhere.

It may well be that the app you use to establish the reset code/ decoder address won’t pair the decoder but you have misinterpreted my advice. There were instances last year of some users trying to pair their decoders in the same way that you would pair say a BT speaker. As I said earlier, there is absolutely no need to go beyond the HMDCC app to determine he address. However if a user with a little knowledge (but perhaps not enough) goes leaping into scanning for devices via a non HMDCC route risks the possibility of inadvertently pairing and thereby locking out the decoder. I return to my original point - stick to the approved route/process.

It may be helpful to you Colin but it carries the potential for the less technically knowledgeable to inadvertently pair the decoder with their phone/tablet should they start randomly searching via other apps or inbuilt phone software. In another thread I have referred to K.I.S.S. and in this case keeping it simple is to only use the Hornby app to look for devices to link. In the case of establishing the decoder address an alternative manual method has also been described that has no risk of any inadvertent pairing.

I, for one, am glad this subject has finally been raised. John says “DCC and HM7K with BT have not made explanations simple.” Very true, and you can add to that - many of us on here now have the benefit of working with, say HM7K for the past year. But with a maturing system, we must remember that we are now entering the period where new users are joining the hobby and are at the start of the learning curve that we have all been on. Think back to the early days of HM7K, when none of us knew anything and asked plenty of questions - the answers tended to be fairly simplistic. As more knowledge was gained, the answers and explanations came with extra levels of detail. Recently, there has been a tendency, when a simple ‘early days’ type question is asked, for some responders to jump straight to the most technically obscure and complicated possible solution. Guaranteed to send the OP running to find another hobby. We could all benefit from remembering K.I.S.S. - keep it simple #banned word# When any kind of troubleshooting is needed there is a process to follow from the most basic of questions to determine the nature of the fault, expanding into areas of increasing complexity until the problem is resolved. I seem to remember that a standard set of questions to determine the basic details of the fault was going to be drawn up to establish a baseline for each enquiry rather than the current scattergun approach to problem solving. Each contributor, however well meaning, will come to an issue with their own preferences and prejudices - mine is always to try switching it off and on again (K.I.S.S). Maybe it is finally time for a more structured approach, from which we can all benefit, to be adopted?

The Hall class profile that will be available towards the end of this year would be best. Until then a ‘near enough’ 2 cylinder loco will have to do. Just be aware that the whistles will be ‘wrong’ until a GWR profile is released.

It is not necessary to use any third party app or software to find the decoder or its address. It is also totally unnecessary to delete the app to cure a freeze or glitch. 99% of times a simple switch it off and on again will be sufficient, as it is with most items these days.

Not possible as the plugs and sockets are different sizes.

Once linked you should get an email advice from a Hornby (automatic) that includes the reset code. Although you will soon work out that the code can be worked out from the MAC address - prefix the last four digits with a4c13800 (I’m using memory for that code but you will recognise what I mean from the code you have received). There should be no need for a forced reset if a new decoder shows as resettable - just power cycle the layout and the tablet or phone for a couple of minutes. When you power it all back up again it should show as linkable. No need for anything more complicated than that in the majority of cases.

OO or TT? In OO it fits in the cab after a small amount of surgery. Smaller stay alives are possible but only if more expensive components are used.

To hopefully help with the OP’s question - as Rob says, the 4 amp supply will be more than enough for around a dozen locos, maybe more if they are just burbling away in the sidings. However, there is another issue that may occur. I have found that having more than 5 or 6 locos set to ‘active’ on the app can start to slow down the button response times on the app. This is, I suspect, more to do with my tablet rather than the app as it has not been reported or replicated by other users. I just have to remember to set my chosen locos to active status before a session and inactive if they are not being used. I believe that the development team intends to automate the changing of status at some time in the future.

When that part of the manual was written, it was the intention that all CV amendments made on the app would write across to the decoder. In practice that proved not to be the case. It was identified early in the test process but has yet to be completely fixed. In the meantime just treat the TXS decoder as an ordinary one and make this particular change the old fashioned way and you should be able to switch between Bluetooth and DCC control without issue.

You have to program the required address into the decoder using a legacy DCC controller ie on a programming track. Setting the address via the app does not, as yet, write that address across to the decoder. The decoder will likely respond on DCC if you use the default address of 3 prior to changing it to an address of your own choosing.

I understand that the next batch are already on a container at sea. No doubt delayed by the attacks on ships trying to transit the Red Sea.

Well its unlikely that two decoders bought at different times would have exactly the same fault. Look at the variables that have not changed ie the loco and your power supply/controller.

Its not unheard of for the speakers to fail if overstressed. Contact Hornby Customer Services and they will replace it.

Only ever taken out one from over 120 DCC locos. The remaining 119 run absolutely fine.

Haven’t the version numbers been reorganised following recent updates? I think all profiles should now be v1.3 or better. Either way, when Hornby review a ‘faulty’ decoder the policy is that if no fault is found, it is returned with an updated profile preloaded and, most importantly, tested for fidelity. If that decoder still fails to function it then points to an issue with the OP’s loco or local DCC setup. That of course would also include the psu and phone/tablet in terms of compatibility. As Fishy says, working through the troubleshooting guide would probably help.

It's a while since I did mine but I recall fitting the speaker and powerbank in the cab - yes you will need to drill a small hole for the wires. Fit a crew and you'll never notice the 'extras' in the cab.

Presumably you have loaded them both with the same version of the same sound profile from the app?