Sailorman

The Southern Cross model is not really worth re-issuing. It is to an odd scale and far from accurate.

I made a sort of jig for my model ship builds. Two bolts in the wooden base fit into two nuts built into the ship's hull. Once the ship is ready for painting it goes onto the jig and never comes off again until it is 100% complete. It allows me to "handle" the model without actually touching it.

Interesting idea ........ who knows, we might see more of the older kits released. We have already had quite a few. Now it seems the Bloodhound missile is out too.

It all depends on what you want out of model making. If things continue as they are going manufacturers will soon be putting completed builds into the boxes....The whole fun of building a model is building something that is "personal." I still get a kick out of building the vintage classics where you have to scratchbuild all the details......... but that's me!

David, I've passed your message on to Airfix. They send their apologies and say they will sort this out. Let me know how it goes.

Noted! Will see what can be done.

I never managed to find Klear Floor Polish on sale here in Malta but I used to use a similar product called GLANZER, another similar floor polish. Nowadays I prefer going for clear lacquers - Gloss / Satin or Matt though I still use Glanzer sometimes.

I've been using clear decal sheet for some time and have just ordered a fresh pack together with a pack of white decal sheet, (which I have never used before). These decals tend to be really thin and difficult to transfer from the backing sheet to the model. What you need to do is spray on a couple of coats of clear gloss lacquer. This gives them a bit of body ...enough for them not to curl up or break apart when you apply them. For small decals ....eg: doors on my 1:600 liners / ships' names etc I simply brush the lacquer on rather than messing about with my airbrush. When they dry you just apply whatever final lacquer coat you want to finish the whole of the model in .....Gloss / Satin or Matt.

Gosh! Get well soon and get back on this site ASAP!

What colour scheme are you going for? I did mine in the 3-tone wavy colours. You're making a better job of building it than I did! I basically built it out of the box and patched up some old photo etch I had in the spares box. The dedicated WEM etch didn't exist at the time. I did attempt to rig the walrus though!grinning We really are nuts aren't we?

Lucky you ....Lidl in Malta never seems to have any kits!

That looks like a great kit ...Can't wait to see it ready!

Oh dear KiwiKev ........in the final picture it looks as though she's been sunk!

Actually, the frog kit is to a scale of1:415

I have made Airfix aware of the issue. As the website doesn't have weekend technical support it will be actioned on Monday. Will keep you posted.

It's important to cover the needle again with the cover provided the minute you are through applying the glue. Never let it stand about uncovered or the problem will happen again and again. PS: I don't mean cover it at the end of your modelling session .....I mean cover it each and everytime you apply the glue to a part.

When a tyre goes flat it is no longer round. You can replicate that by sanding the model tyre on a piece of sandpaper on a flat surface. You then have to represent the fact that when the rim presses down on the tyre it flattens and widens the now deflated tyre. To represent this you glue a bit of plastic to the flattened part. Plastic card if you have it or a bit of chopped up sprue. Let it dry really well and then shape it to look like a flat tyre. Don't try to sand it until it has really dried well because it will gum up the sandpaper. Try to find a picture of a flattened tyre to use as a "model." Some people do it by pressing the wheel against a hot surface. The problem wit this is you only get one chance and if you do it wrong you ruin the wheel. I have an aversion to bringing heat to a model unless it is a scratchbuilt part that I can easily replace.

Yes, that is a common mistake. I thought it was part of Airfix too when I first subscribed.

Let us know if there is anything we can help with.

If can even search for specific elements ....eg: Victory's boat

Dave, why not carry out a quick search on the Internet. You'll find loads of pictures like this one. The internet is a great source for such information.

Yes, the breakwater is poorly represented. A breakwater with ribs would look so good.

If you decide to build HMS Blake give me a shout. I have the full article printed in an Airfix Magazine from the early 1970's with plans / information how to go about it. This is the plan.

I like the way you detail the superstructure of your ships. Mine tend to look a bit "empty." Incidentally White Ensign make a great photoetch for the masts etc. It's PE 624 https://www.whiteensignmodels.com/p/WEM+1600+Ultimate+PostWar+Royal+Navy+Set+1+PE+624/5357/

Hi Kiwikev, here are my attempts at Blake and Tiger. Right click on each photo and select "open in a new tab" to see them better.