Andy P.

SCX (Spanish Scalextric that has nothing to do with Hornby) have a full range of rally cars. I am partial to Skodas... Most of them are 4-wheel drive.

Suggest you just google or youtube that... without knowing where you are or your skill level it would be a waste of time for us to do that for you...

There are several versions depending on where you live in the world. for 220-240 Volt the only difference is the plug. Other details are here: You can get one directly from Hornby or from any stockist that sells Scalextric.

It`s larger than the older analog ones, likely to handle more amps...?

see my comment in the other thread... they are about the same...

Hi there and welcome. About 1: Newer Sport track is very smooth. Some would say the smoothest in the industry. Another thing that might be causing you problems is Classic track has higher "magnetism" so the cars will be pulled down harder plus surface is rougher. Some options are using silicone tires or polyurethane tires that have more grip than the standard rubber ones. Also try putting a little bit of an angle on the tires so that more rubber hits the road on corners. I also use black gloss nail polish on the surface of the front tires so minimize grip in the front. About 2 and 3: That behavior is unfortunately normal when a chipped i.e. digital car runs in analog mode. In digital mode though they should behave fine. It is important to remember that in digital, unlike analog mode the track is under full power all the time and you pulling the trigger just tells the car how much power to "accept". Mixing classic and sport track means the power is undergoing different levels of resistance (see the comment about magnetism). The digital signal is really a set of wavelengths much like radio stations. If you remember analog TV or radio you might remember that putting aluminum foil would allow you to get more stations. When you use different types of track you might be affecting these wavelengths ever so slightly causing the odd behavior. I suggest setting up the smallest oval possible with only Sport track and then expanding it to see if the behavior changes... If the digital cars still won`t behave there might be a problem with a transistor or capacitor in the power base... Good luck!

While I can`t guarantee that there isn`t some sort of a manufacturing problem it is really rare to ever put two pieces in line with sensors (the round hole in the rails). I can`t tell from the pictures if this is the same type of track or not. If it is the same type e.g. a short single-lane straight etc then there is a problem. If the track if of a different type I think the problem is they were never meant actually connect. Not sure I am making sense...? Pictures of the whole pieces of track would help...

Pretty much the same size. They might actually be longer but trimming is not a problem.

Hi There I don`t have a lot of experience with Hornby US as I am based in Europe. I have found the people at the headquarters in Margate are usually knowledgeable as they actually designed and engineered the thing. Their address is the same as the one you sent but ends in co.uk I think. Alternatively try the UK/GB site and use the contact form there. I think you have three options: 1 Get a 90° barrel plug or 2 reroute the power input in the powerbase itself. or 3 Relocate the eletrconic part of the power base. For 1: Back in the day you could have gone to a radio Shack and they would have been able to set you up in no time. What you need to know id the out diameter and the inner diameter of the plug. The black strip is an insulator. It should be the same width as well as there is a pin inside the power base that slides inside the barrel and a small finger that touches the outside of the plug. Once you find one the correct dimensions you can simply cut the power cord and solder on to the new plug IMPORTANT: Make sure you keep track of whether the inside is negative or the outside. Swapping those around will kill your powerbase. 2 I can`t find any pictures of the inside of the powerbase off hand but if memory serves the power jacks inside the base are only pressed on to the circuit board or lightly soldered. You can detach them from board and lengthen the connection using wires and relocate them somewhere else. 3 This might be the easiest option as I have seen it done a few times. Since the track it is attached to is the same across all ARC powerbases the electronic module is just screwed on the the track. You could detach the power electronics and lengthen the wires so the base is anywhere on the layout. In fact I think the connection is a standard 4 wire connection so you could make/buy "extension cords". One of the beauties of ARC PRO is its wireless controllers so where the base is can be theoretically anywhere. I would try to keep the wires under 2 meters/6 feet.... Good luck!

HI There, Formula cars are always a challenge. It is good to remember you can lengthen the leads to the LED and the pickups more or less ad infinitum. So maybe a side pod will have space (you could counter balance it). Often people will decapitate or hollow out the driver and put the chip where the seat would be. This thread here, though long, covers a lot of cars: https://www.slotforum.com/threads/ssd-chipping-database.22159/

Ah.. oh... 🙂

MR?

I am curious as to why you say it is "more interactive" than ARC...? Lap counting though is essential in any layout IMHO.

A few years back the guides, wheels and tires were all rationalized and with very few exceptions are pretty much the same across the board. There are service sheets for some models: https://support.scalextric.com/hc/en-gb/categories/360002726400-Product-Support But it is a bit of a pain to get through it... There is a site I think call Scalextric Car .co.uk which has a LOT of info...

If the controllers are bound correctly and the car set up you should see a change. Try reinstalling the app and reconnect the cars one at a time testing them each time. There are some tips here as well: https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=181&page=4

What is your country or region? You can contact "Magic" directly and let him know...

My responses above are preceded by *** and ante ceded by --- Good luck!

I don't think they are the same. The ARC PRO probably provides more AMPS and I think the barrel connector is bigger. I can't be 100 % sure though. It sounds to me like your APP has some sort of a problem. I would delete it and reinstall it. Try using a different device. Apple devices seem to work better for some reason. There is also an enthusiast created APP call "Magic" that might help.

Hi Kevin, Those are about the same size as most "H0" scale cars like Tyco, Lifelike etc. I am pretty sure Pendles in the UK covers them and there are lots of places in the US that handle as that scale is much more popular over there. Good luck!

thumbsup

Wow! That looks great! How did you mount the guard rails? Just holes in the base?

I only know of the official ARC app and Magic APP for the ARC products or RCS64 (I think) for the old C7042 powerbase. I don't think any other digital powerbases have any third party software....

Hi There, If you are using ARC PRO you can adjust top speed and acceleration in the the app. If you are using the C7042 legacy powerbase there are third party software solutions that allow this but there is nothing out of the box. Sometimes putting something under the trigger to avoid it being pulled all the way helps... BTW: Chipped aka digitized cars will be twitchier than analog cars in analog mode. Booster cables are fine in both analog and digital. Just make sure you don't cross the lanes. Good luck!

That's the old 4-car powerbase. Not very powerful at the best of times. Usually 3 cars is the highest number you can run and you are right, it has no analog mode. You can of course test the analog motor with a 9-volt battery: Just hold it up to the contacts and the motor should spin whether chipped or not. I am not an electronics expert so the only way I would know in testing the chip would be to put it in a Hornby car and test it... Good luck!

Hi Ben, Couple of questions: Did the car work in analog mode before? It looks in fairly good condition but adding some lubricant on the bushings, bearings and pinion may help it out i.e. reduce power consumption. The easiest way to ensure low power consumption is to remove the magnet. If you are using ARC PRO you can also reduce the overall power and speed of the car that might help... Are you sure the retro chip is in working order? I usually use very small plugs instead of soldering the wires directly. It as the advantage of being able to put the car back into analog mode fairly easily. It also helps if the chip is blown. You can try to fit a standard Scalextric motor. It can be held in place with hot glue. Here are some threads elsewhere that might help: https://www.slotforum.com/threads/new-to-chipping-some-advice-on-scx.206616/ https://www.slotforum.com/threads/ssd-chipping-database.22159/page-68#post-2225481 Good luck!