Andy P.

As long as they are the straight lane changers you should be fine. I ran analog cars on a digital layout for 4 hours last Saturday with no problems. The old out of production curved lane changers can sometimes cause problems though. Rarely direct sunlight can trigger the lane changers so maybe putting a small piece of tape on the flipper to keep it from switching might help...

The electronics inside the ARC PRO are very sensitive especially to sine waves and other types of radiation so I would recommend getting the same type of power pack that came with the ARC PRO.

When a track layout exceeds 10 meters (33 feet) or when you use more than 3-4 cars at a time (or both) you need more power. The second input is for a second power unit. Putting two jacks on one power unit would increase the cost of one unit. My guess is they wanted to keep initial cost down. The added benefit is if one of the power units breaks you have at least one and the power should be delivered a little more smoothly.

Contact Hornby at the address below and ask if you can send it in for repair.

Hi Joshua, A couple of things: ARC AIR is not digital. It is an app enhanced analog racing power base that adds features thanks to the technology in the power base. ARC PRO is a digital power base. Digital racing means you have switches or points where the cars can change lanes. You can also race up to 6 cars at a time. https://uk.scalextric.com/community/advice/app-race-control Micro is roughly 1/64 scale and Scalextric Sport (the size of track for ARC AIR and PRO) is 1:32 scale. The lower the number the larger an item is. Sport is twice the size of Micro. While it is theoretically possible convert the track it would require either moving all of the electronics in the ARC AIR powerbase to a Micro setup or making specialized converter track. Micro car motors are wired the other way around and use different voltages so it would not be straight forward. I have used Micro scale cars on Sport (1:32 scale) track and it does work but I have never done it with ARC..

Cars that old likely need a bit refurbishing by putting a little oil on the axles and the the pinion. Little is the key word here! I am not sure those are the original guide blades as those guide blades started to appear in the 90's and the set is much older. The braids themselves actually look ok. They can be made shiny again with a fiberglass pencil. I can't tell from the photos but the wires to the motor may be soldered on as that type of guide blade is usually pushed into the chassis and the braids make contact with strips of metal on the chassis that are soldered to wires to the motor. If it works though that is great! They guide itself is either a long stem W5230/C8071 or short stem C8145

It sometimes called water tamp or water transfer. It is a process where basically the entire livery is printed on a thin membrane that is floated in water and then the body is lifted from underneath and the membrane sticks basically painting and and putting the decals on the car in one go. In the right light you can see that there are not individual decals but one big decal. Some claim it is more durable. It is faster and cheaper as all cars are white and you just have have the tamp made up. Some argue it has the advantage that the car underneath is white so if you find a way to remove the tampo you have a clean white car you can paint to your heart's content... The disadvantage is cars with lots of sharp edges and wings like formula or Indy car don't work as well.

A quick glance in the "Ultimate Scalextric Guide" by Adrian Norman doesn't show this livery either. It is likely someone removed the tampo markings and put new decals on it. Otehrwise it looks exactly like all the other DTM CLKs in the guide...

https://uk.scalextric.com/community/forum/search?search=copper+tape

Hi Neil, The very best place is to try to find a local slot car club as they will very surely be able to help: https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=167 In general though it sounds like the rails need polishing, braids replaced and the tires swapped. Most of the stockists around can help finding the right products and can often explain how to do it. There is also the advice section here: https://uk.scalextric.com/community/advice

Hi Russell, I have made multiple posts about using copper tape. Please give the search a try and if you still have questions let us know. Short: I use it a lot! :-) Thanks

Spare parts are always tricky. An astute electronics person could likely handle it with a new LED and bit of solder. Otherwsie cantact the Margate office. There have been multiple examples of them fixing trains and cars...

Probably the voltage was too low to make it work...

You will likely have to search locally as I don't see any stiockist listed in Brasil or near you in Latin America. It might be important to note that Scalextric is sometimes listed as SuperSlot in some countries. There are online retailers who likely can help.

Likely a loose connection inside the car, likely between the braids and the wires. If everything looks ok but you don't have the the skills to fix it send it to Margate (address below) and they will fix it...!

Hi John, They regularly attend the UK SlotFest in Gaydon which is usually in May as well as the Silverstone F1 race and some BTCC races. They often go to Le Mans/Le Mans Classic as well. As far as that event is concerned you'd have to write them an email or give them a ring as they don't check in here that often... Cheers

That should be a standard easy fit blades. https://uk.scalextric.com/products/scalextric-easy-fit-guide-blade-pack-c8312 They can be obtained from just about any retailer. There is a small chance it requires a screw version: https://uk.scalextric.com/products/round-guide-blade-4-braid-plates-1-screw-c8329 (you can ignore the fact that it mentions the Lotus...) There are no other options really for a car of that age unless you bought the car used and a previous owner mangled it in some way... Good luck!

There are no issues with discussing such things here. As long as you understand you are forgoing any warranty protection...

Hi Matt, Sets get signed of for production months before they are available in stores. The website sometimes goes through one or two major updates in that time-. In general though all track is compatible with your set. Only the digital lane changing pieces with flippers require the ARC PRO powerbase. Here are some useful track packs: https://uk.scalextric.com/catalogue/track/track-extension-packs?langPath=scalextric-uk&filters%5Bmandatory_filter_by%5D%5Bproduct_category%5D=Track%20Extension%20Packs&page_id=1235&sort_by=8&page=1

Have you tried contacting any retailers ?

I am not familiar with the flip top cases you are referencing. Do you have a picture?

Unless the garage is at a constant temperature it is not recommended to fix it to the board. The track can expand and contract a lot because of temp changes. Scalextric track has lots of ways to attach elevation parts to the bottom of the track. If you want to make your layout semi-permanent you can a small dab of hot glue to hold pillars etc to the bottom of the track. It can be removed with alcohol later.

I can't think of any Scalextric cars having working brakes out of the box. Constant rear lights yes, but brakes that activate... I don't know for sure though! As with so many of these things even if the hardware is there enabling it costs time and therefore money.

The width, length and height of Sport track is the same as the old Classic track (the radii are the same too) so anything that goes on the outside or under the track will fit (e.g. borders, barriers etc). It is only the surface and the connector that are different. Good luck!