Andy P.

Please don't double post.

You are entitled to your opinion and Hornby/Scalextric do make mistakes from time to time but the fact is things usually go right more than they go wrong and when they go wrong Hornby usually can help.

The only way to be sure is to make sure no other track is attached and that the powerbase looks like it is in good condition. If it still doesn't work you can open it up by unscrewing the bottom and see if anything is obviously wrong. Otherwise you will have to send it to Hornby (contact below) for fixing...

Pity... This doesn't have anything to do with Sniff&Smith's theory that Bristol is stuck in the 90's does it? :-D

Apologies. I have had the response back for a few days but there has been some terrible things going on so it took me a while to come back: According to my source at Hornby (I am not an employee, I am a volunteer) all Spark Plugs are compatible with each other however the wireless controller comes with its own spark plug so you will have some spark plugs left over (you can of course use them with a mobile device...) Hope that helps!

Depending on the age of the car it might have bushings it might not. Could you take some pictures and post them? The pictures will have to be approved so it may take some time. Please do not multiple post. Thank you.

Which digital set? There are at least 4 different options from Scalextric plus other non-Hornby brands. I have rejected your other mails as we can follow up here...

There really are no bad-looking Triumphs... There is a 1/32 scale resin kit of the Le Mans Spitfires and I think some of the saloons and coupés out there...

I haven't used this in a LOOOONg time: Accoding to this: https://www.pendleslotracing.co.uk/downloads/scalextric-arc-air-guide.pdf It sounds like you are doing it right. Do both cars have black guide blades?

HI Chadow, General consensus is that Apple products work better than Android. Android works well but it just seems to be a smoother experience. I only have Apple devices. I would get whatever Apple Mini is out there. Not the latest version, go for whatever version has just been replaced. The "Magic App" work on windows and you can use a PC. The oficial app does not have a Windows option. In fact "Magic" has been testing a browser based version... Love the Stag! I finally got my parts back from the powder coaters and will start rebuilding my Spitfire...

Hi Byron, Anything over 10 meters/33 feet is going to likely start to have power issues. Also if the cars' motors are not turning freely, or if you are using more powerful motors (like on some SCX or NSR models) the ARC AIR might struggle. When you say "older" track do you mean the kind with the two "loops" or spoons on the end and you are using this converter piece to connect it all up: https://uk.scalextric.com/products/converter-straight-x-2-c8222 If so the older "classic" track can be from numerous countries, UK, France, Spain... It also is made of all different types of steal. Steal is not a great conductor when compared to other metals. The slot is also shallower, by the way, meaning most modern Scalextric cars (and most non-Hornby slot cars) will "bottom out" on it. Classic track is often bent, squished and twisted causing pinching of the guide blade and increase the power consumption. So this is a long answer to say, while the track is compatible there are lots of reason why it might trip the electronics and make it go into safe mode. I actually got rid of all my classic track except for the parts for which there is no Sport equivalent (e.g. Goodwood Chicane, Pit lane etc...) If you really want to keep the classic track you have to make sure it is in really good condition. Rust, even a slight discoloring will increase resistance and therefore cause the powerbase to trip. Good cleaning tips can be found here: https://uk.scalextric.com/community/advice/track-maintenance Many use a railroad track cleaning "eraser" or rubber. You can also try power taps as mentioned on that page as well. One common fix is to use copper tape that has conductive adhesive. I have done this on all the classic track i still have. It takes getting used to from an optical perspective but I can assure you it works. Make sure you fold about 5mm of the tape into the "female" side of the rails and wrap the "male" side so you have a copper to copper connection. Good luck!

A former Hornby employee named Adrian Norman has been writing the "Ultimate Guide" for some years. He is on faceocok and has every single car ever made..

The peg on the "male" side of the rail is really a pin and those can come loose or something could be causing a poor connection. Expansion and contraction can cause it as well. If you can get some track real cheap maybe make a small oval just to ensure the powerbase isn't the issue..

Hi Lyndon, I am not a Hornby employee but I have asked on your behalf. Maybe contacting them directly using the links below would help? Cheers

Hi Andrew That set is very old and has not been produced for quite some time. Still, I always prefer getting old things working instead of buying new. Having said that, the set comes with a fairly basic digital powerbase that is known as being a very fragile and sometimes unruly thing. The best advice can be found here: https://uk.scalextric.com/community/advice/scalextric-digital and car maintenance here: https://uk.scalextric.com/community/advice/car-maintenance Likely a wire has come loose in the dead car or the braids are overly worn. Double check by applying a 9-volt battery to the power contacts and braids and see if the motor turns. Carefully open the car up and inspect if there might be some dirt or hair or carpet gumming up the axles. You may decide to use the latest digital power base which adds a ton of really cool features: https://uk.scalextric.com/community/advice/app-race-control The lap counting and ability to e-mail results will help keep the track interesting in the long run. :-) Good luck and lets us know how you get on!

Usually if there is a bad connection i.e. low power the flippers do not activate. If they are randomly activating the it is usually there is some infra-red source interfering like LED lights, sunlight/shadows etc. There was one report that the WIFI frequency was causing problems but I don't have any experience with it myself. You could of course replace the powerbase with another digital powerbase o any kind and see if that is the problem..

You probably have pairing and the ID mixed up. See this great guide on the "rule of three": https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=181&page=4

I think the last time I saw an ARC PRO powerbase that had this problem was well over 3 years ago. Any of the newer bases should be fine for analog and legacy curved lane changers.

Since digital sends power around the whole track regardless of lane it is more than likely something physically going wrong, likely oxidation causing more resistance. If it is not too much hassle, set up the smallest, simplest oval and gradually add track until the problem occurs. If that is out of the question (as you say it is permanent) using an ohm meter might help...

Did the track work fine without ARC AIR ? Does it do this with every car? (Cars can cause shorts...) Double check the track. I once had the thinnest of bits of braid that came off a car cause a short and until I vacuumed the whole track it didn't go away. Also make sure if you are using crossover track to always use them in pairs...

Are you referring to the things on the ends of the wires numbered "10" on this service sheet? https://support.scalextric.com/hc/en-gb/article_attachments/6732940008338 Those are extremely common and quite low tech, easily made from a bit of soft metal like copper. They also almost never break so I am curious why you are asking...?

Some track planners like Ultimate Racer allow you to keep an inventory. Others might as well. I personally have a spreadsheet since I combine different brands...

It is very rare but occasionally problems crop up. Best is to contact Hornby directly: https://support.scalextric.com/hc/en-gb/sections/360004593619-Returns-Repairs

Hi John, There was a micro change the Micro setup in 2019 I think. The cars are now 9 volt DC. There is a good chance you got older Micro cars that might be set up for the old system. The easiest fix is to remove the body and if possible flip the rear axle 180°. If that is not possible you can swap the wires from the pick up. Failing that you will have to snip the wires and resolder them the other way round. Good luck!

The problem is the jacks are hard wired to the lanes so pumping 30 Volts through one might over power it. Like I said, it doesn't have to be a Hornby powersupply. There is a Toshiba laptop powersupply that is a one to one swap that has just enough amps to make things work but not too much to melt it all. I think there was a thread on Slotforum.com about it. Otherwise anyone with a a wee bit of electrical knowledge should be able to get a generic power supply to work with the the correct volts, amps etc. and the required barrel plug... Good luck and have a great year! (, eh) ! :-D