Graham-1216784 Posted October 31, 2021 Share Posted October 31, 2021 Hello,I am a relatively new 'returnee' to modeling, recently completing and brush painting the 1:72 dogfight double set of Spitfire Mk1a and BF109E. I then went on to the standalone Mitsubishi A6M2b Zero and purchased alternate paints from the Vallejo range...That's where my troubles started. The Humbrol paints included with DD set thinned with water very well and i had no issue with them, however the Vallejo paints behaved strangely. First i was not happy with the initial two coats that i gave, only being satisfied by the the third - but i then realised that the coating was extremely soft and vulnerable to scratching. In all it has takien over 48 hours to feel the paint has fully set. Additionally, I had trouble with decals on this model. I again used the Vallejo range of Decal 'fix' and 'softener' which has resulted in a sticky mess, blemishing the surrounding areas of paint.I have some Humbrol clear satin. Just wondered if i might risk brushing this over the model to improve appearance - Which leads to the question: Do people usually finish a model with varnish?Is it usual to protect a finished model with some sort of coating to protect from dust etc? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratch Posted October 31, 2021 Share Posted October 31, 2021 This is a beginner's guide:Take your time! Not rushing through really helps in all sorts of ways. Preparation of parts helps save time in the long run. With experience you learn to think through some changes in the steps though.The mouldings are normally attached to a runner by sprue gates. Do not remove pieces from the runners until you are ready to use them.Read the instructions carefully- you'd be surprised at how often even experienced modellers don't do this at times!Wash the runners in warm, soapy water to remove any residue of Mould Release Agent, the presence of which will spoil later paintwork.Allow the parts to dry naturally on an absorbent piece of paper kitchen towel.It may be easier to paint small components (and/or components that are fitted internally) before they are removed from the sprues.Use side cutters to separate the mouldings from the sprue gates.Clean up any excess plastic with a sanding board, sandpaper, file or other suitable implement.The parts should now be ready for assembly. Cement should be applied sparingly, only applied to the surfaces to be joined. If some glue gets onto areas it shouldn’t, don't touch it! Allow it to dry and then clean up. Give glue enough time to set properly.A small amount of filler may be needed on the seams so that they won't show after painting. Humbrol do a nice one but always put the cap back on the tube straight away or it will harden.The joints may be cleaned up with fine sandpaper, or a file.You will then have to decide upon which type of paints you wish to use. Acrylic paints are pretty good these days and they make cleaning up easier with warm water and less smelly too. Enamel paints take longer to dry and require thinning with white spirit. Some use oil paints; these take longer to dry (days) than enamels and brushes should be cleaned with white spirit; oils are not suitable for airbrushing.Paint brushes will still be required, even if you decide to use an airbrush for applying the paint.Give paint enough time to dry completely.Before you apply the decals or transfers a gloss surface is needed. This is because a matt surface will trap microscopic air bubbles under the carrier film and cause a phenomenon known as silvering. The gloss surface prevents these bubbles from being trapped and the result should appear to be seamless. There are propriety modelling gloss finishes available, but most modellers choose to use Klear.Apply your decals using a fixative and a softener for them to conform to moulded surfaces. When dry apply another gloss coat before weathering. This will seal and protect the decals before any washes or pigments are applied. Finally you will seal the decals/transfers under a coat of your choice; Matt, Satin or Gloss (depending upon the subject).It is worth remembering that you should not rush – more haste really is less speed in modelling!When you make an error don't jump in to fix it straight away, unless the glue has not set. If in doubt ask and if you think you already know, still ask - you might find a better way, or maybe your own way helps someone else. The only daft question is the one you didn't ask. Just remember we all got to where we are by using other people’s knowledge, none of us were born as modellers we all had to learn, and we all made some really bad mistakes along the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenneth ONeill Posted November 1, 2021 Share Posted November 1, 2021 Ratch has covered a lot of this, so I'll confine myself to the Vallejo questions. Let me start by saying that I don't really like them, so don't use them much. That said, I don't find that they need thinned when I do use them, but do find that some ranges have some colours that take much longer than others to dry, so it would be helpful if you said which colours you have issues with. OK?Now, on decal fixatives. Don't use a setting agent unless you have to or it's recommended in the instructions (for example on a Ford or Junkers trimotor with a corrugated skin, or carbon fibre effect decals on anything). If you do use a setting agent, apply it whilst the decal is still wet, then LEAVE IT ALONE until it's dry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sailorman Posted November 1, 2021 Share Posted November 1, 2021 In the case of very old kits you will find the decals are very fragile. It's best to apply a coat or two of lacquer while they are still on the backing sheet. Then trim them and apply them. Start with the smaller, less important decals to make sure they come away cleanly. I recently built an old Frog Southern Cross and I started with the large decal on the side of the fuselage. It fell to pieces! I then lacquered all the others and they went on ok, but of course I had the Southern Cross decal missing on the starboard side of the fuselage. I finally spent a good year or two waiting to buy another set of decals from a well known website. These were even worse than mine but I lacquered them and split the large Southern Cross decal into three smaller bits. I finally succeeded and have now completed the build! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratch Posted November 1, 2021 Share Posted November 1, 2021 Vallejo paints don't need thinning. Vallejo Model Color is designed to be brushed on and Vallejo Model Air is for use in an airbrush straight from the bottle. They can be fragile so handle with care. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Triggers Posted November 1, 2021 Share Posted November 1, 2021 Quite weak yes, but when treated with some aerosol clear matte from the range, or some other store like that, but the finish is much better than the included gloom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratch Posted January 3, 2022 Share Posted January 3, 2022 Of course, the build is finished when you say it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feanor Posted January 7, 2022 Share Posted January 7, 2022 when you think it is... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sailorman Posted January 7, 2022 Share Posted January 7, 2022 When I am close to finishing a kit I write out all that I have left to do on a spreadsheet. I tick them off as the build progresses and sometimes add other things that i notice need doing. When there is nothing left on the spreadsheet the model is complete! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Triggers Posted January 7, 2022 Share Posted January 7, 2022 When you drop it while doing the last rigging wire... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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