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Engine won’t move


Backafter5

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If it was a DCC Ready model that you added the decoder to, simply swap back to the blanking plate.

Alternatively if a DCC Fitted model, it’s probably more advisable to contact Hornby Customer Services.

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Carefully hold loco upside down, supporting the tender and see if the centre driving wheels have any ‘backlash’ in them, they should move a few mm in either direction before the gearing stops it. I did have a couple of fully seized A4’s early in TT:120. At time didn’t have a rod nut spinner, I think there can be a few cases of motor becoming unseated, the retaining plate can come loose. The worm drive becomes locked or fully disengaged. How much you want to do yourself is your call. A4 has a mechanical lubricator linkage so you will need to undo a conrod nut on rear wheel to remove the body as per instructions on service sheet. Use correct tool not pliers or similar! 

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Hi

Have removed body(had to wait on Conrad spanner). Checked worm wheel on motor and gearing to wheels. All seem to move smoothly. Is there a way to check if motor runs under power.  
 

also checked decoder was install correctly

Edited by Backafter5
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Not without the decoder blanking plate so you can eliminate decoder from cause. You can’t easily access the motor feed wires to bypass that way. Do you have another decoder or one in another loco you can swap? 

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Absolutely what Nick has just said. I’d try it and see if SK works on DC ok, if it does then the issue is decoder based. They can fail but it’s not that common. I’d try multiple unlink/delete/clear engine shed/power down both track power and the controller device, I’d consider a delete App and reload just to be sure. These things are easy to do at home. Always worth a go. 

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Hi. It turns out to be the motor. The motor is running but the spindle with the worm gear on it not moving. Any idea where I can get a new motor. Nothing available on Hornby spares pages. 

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@Backafter5   contact Hornby customer services and explain the problem, they seem to be helpful from what I've read (had no cause to use them myself so far). 

But you say the motor is running?  Is there a linked shaft with the worm on it? (I've not have any of my TT:120 apart yet).    Sounds like you need a new shaft rather than a new motor. 

[edit] just looking at one of Peachy's videos, I don't see any shaft linkage just a worm attached directly to the motor.  Is the worm loose on the shaft?  I can't imagine the motor would be able to run at all if -say- the commutator and armature have come loose from the shaft (I've had N gauge motors fail like that, but they lock solid).

Edited by ntpntpntp
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Only thing I can think here is that the worm drive is not ‘fixed’ to the spindle, it would be quite extraordinary for the spindle to break after the bearing. You could pop the motor out and see if the work gear slides off or if it all falls apart. If the plastic in the worm gear is not damaged you could try a repair, either with locking compound or making a sleeve if worm gear is damaged. Call to Hornby would well worth it though. 

Edited by Rallymatt
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I have checked worm gear is solid on the spindle When I hold the motor between fingers I can feel the rotor running but spindle and gear do not move. I will contact Hornby and see if they can supply a new motor.  Thanks all for your help. 

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Has it got a decoder fitted or if not are you feeding it dcc track power. If so that would account for the motor apparently turning when it is reversing direction many times a second.

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11 hours ago, Backafter5 said:

No decoder fitted just blanking plate and feeding it with 9v battery

Does the motor turn smoothly if you spin the worm drive with the motor out of mesh.

I believe the TT120 motors are the N20 type, widely available on-line with and without various gearboxes and cheap.

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(Also with motor out of mesh) Does the rest of the loco’s drive mechanism - gears, wheels, coupling rods etc. turn freely?

If another fault causes the drive mech to lock up - it can easily result in damage to the physically stalled motor & would need to be resolved before replacing motor.

Edited by LTSR_NSE
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Hi ye all turns freely. If I hold motor in cradle and turn worm gear by hand gears wheels turn through 360 degrees although it takes a while. Like 96Raf says there is plenty N20 motors on line. Just trying to track down one with the Q374H stamp on it. 

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@96RAF only need to copy ebay urls as far as the end of the item number (ignore the rest from the first question mark onward) 🙂 
Fortunately on here those long links don't destroy the page formatting (as they do on at least one other forum I frequent). 

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1 hour ago, ntpntpntp said:

@96RAF only need to copy ebay urls as far as the end of the item number (ignore the rest from the first question mark onward) 🙂 
Fortunately on here those long links don't destroy the page formatting (as they do on at least one other forum I frequent). 

Amended - thanks

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7 hours ago, Backafter5 said:

Thanks 96RAF on order 😀

Which one have you ordered? From RAF96's links the only one that might fit is dual shaft and the other 2 are too large.

I ask because I have returned WW for what I believe is a motor failure. It was accepted although out of warranty perhaps because it has already been back 2x. I was looking for a motor online but could not find one I was sure would fit so rang Hornby who accepted the return.

It would be much easier if a replacement motor was available. 

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