Buz Posted February 21, 2015 Share Posted February 21, 2015 /media/tinymce_upload/DSC00283_copy.jpgHi allWell me finaly beat the Hoodoo of the weather and after taking far to long finished the base greening of the hillArchaelogists (spelling) believe it was an iron age hill fort but it had a village built on it beforethere was any care about historical monuments or anything else for that matter thats the justificationThe truth is the layout is that small the hill always was going to look hill fortish if there was going to be oneand there has to be one to hide the fiddle yard and get maximum scenic potential out of the layout.and yes that is a standing stone geting cut through by the edge of the picture.Which adds to the myth built around the layout well I think so at any rateregards John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted February 21, 2015 Share Posted February 21, 2015 I shall make another attempt at getting Class 56 R2235E to run on the track and maybe redesign the first attempt at a motor bogie pickup I fitted to the non-existant gearbox side. It runs fine on the rolling road where there is no friction.Why design a loco with only 'three legs' for goodness sake - and its got rubber tyres all on the same side. At least the TTS Class 37 has its rubber tyres staggered across the bogie. I have some Neo magnets coming to try to kick some life into the old 3-pole ringfield motor but I hope they don't fry the armature as has been reported on some forums. As an experiment I put the Class 37 TTS decoder in the Class 56 and tried it - just the same running ability at first, so I altered CV150 to motor algorithym 2 and it improved the running no end - much smoother response and slow running with less stalling, so now what I have to work out is what can I do with the original R8249 basic decoder in a similar fashion (apart from bin it as it doesn't support much fiddling with). I think the answer may be to install a Sapphire instead and use Decoder-Pro to fiddle with the speed curve profile. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ModelerXYZ Posted February 21, 2015 Share Posted February 21, 2015 I was wiring mine, but I ran into trouble with the Power wiring. see my post Help. when Admin approves the picture. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fazy Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 Over the weekend I have managed to get two very sorry looking black 5s back to life. The odd bit still to get but they are up and running. Both need new tenders and renumbered./media/tinymce_upload/14264523520421753652142.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81F Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 Just put my display cabinets on the wall and am now populating them with my Hornby Dublo, Wrenn and Triang-Hornby collection. Also fitted a chip to my second King George I and taken delivery of a bell and set of King George V name and number plates so will probably change it's ID soon.. I've also replaced some damaged Wrenn/hornby doublo wagon bodies with some brand new ones from wrenn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDS Posted April 5, 2015 Share Posted April 5, 2015 Just completing the installation of 28 Point Motors and the installation of a Ring Bus. The Ring Bus has taken me ages but I have gone from ONE connection to the whole layout (that never caused me any problems or let me down at all) to THIRTY connections to droppers that I have soldered to the bottom of the track. I just hope it was worth it. One member in particular on this forum has persuaded me over the last few months. Guess who? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PJ_model_trains Posted April 5, 2015 Share Posted April 5, 2015 Hi Dave You have been very busy, I hope all the work is worth it. Whoever it was that talked you into it must have done exactly what you have done. Listened to the experts and considered the logic behind what they say. Well done on your hard work. I am waiting for my layout to be up ended for me, I replaced a set of points and need to connect them underneath. Once it is lifted I am going to extend the wires to all points so in future I can cut a set of points out and lift them to be able to remove and replace a point motor from above should I have problems in the future. It is a pain when you have to wait for people to do these things, I replaced the points two weeks ago so really want it connected. I want to run programs and it is holding me back. I just have to be patient. Once uplifted I may be down for 7-14 days, it depends how longs things take and waiting to have the layout dropped again. I also managed to get some two pin, pre-wired, plug and sockets these will be for easy plug in or out unfder station platforms and for easy removing of side panels with lighting on low relief stations. I got 10 for £6-7 including postage so not to bad, sold in packets of two. PJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teedoubleudee Posted April 6, 2015 Share Posted April 6, 2015 Have you got a link to those plugs and sockets PJ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The son of Triangman Posted April 6, 2015 Author Share Posted April 6, 2015 Rebuilding a Tri-ang Dock shunter that hasn't moved for years. I bought it off a fair yonks ago and it has sat around so I might as well get it going again. Shame about the transfers, otherwise a nice old loco./media/tinymce_upload/trdock1.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PJ_model_trains Posted April 6, 2015 Share Posted April 6, 2015 Hi TWDI will find link later today, if not I will get you details where I purchased from.PJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PJ_model_trains Posted April 6, 2015 Share Posted April 6, 2015 Hi TWD2 small Pre-wired two pin plug, and socket sets ( 16 volts 1 Amp Max )If link below doesn't work (you may have to cut and paste into browser) search details above in eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-small-Pre-wired-two-pin-plug-and-socket-sets-16-Volts-1-Amp-Max-/271808843935?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3f4911d09f#shpCntId £1.11 for a packet of 2. P&P 99p and 15p for each additional packet.PJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teedoubleudee Posted April 6, 2015 Share Posted April 6, 2015 Thanks PJ, just bought last 2 packets. They look like they have some kind of locking mechanism. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PJ_model_trains Posted April 6, 2015 Share Posted April 6, 2015 Hi TWDThey do. They clip together then when you want to remove them you squeeze the two clips to pull apart.I was lucky they had 5 packets and I took them all, I wanted ten plug and sockets so it was great, also cheaper with P&P getting them all at once.PJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2e0dtoeric Posted April 6, 2015 Share Posted April 6, 2015 What am I doing with the railway - Nothing! I'm taking five minutes for a cuppa, after killing weeds in the garden - in the sun! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulleidboy Posted April 6, 2015 Share Posted April 6, 2015 Wiring-up points Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah! Had a slight problem but FB and WTD said "check, check and check again. I found the problem. So five working nineteen to go. At least when this is done, I can work on top of the boards rather than underneath. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PJ_model_trains Posted April 6, 2015 Share Posted April 6, 2015 Hi BulleidWorking under the layout is a pane but, it will all be worth it. The worst part of any building is the foundation, the work underneath! Good luck.PJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2e0dtoeric Posted April 6, 2015 Share Posted April 6, 2015 The worst part of having to work underneath the boards is that you can't curse and swear, - because you are holding the torch in your teeth so you can see what you are doing! :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulleidboy Posted April 6, 2015 Share Posted April 6, 2015 I can actually sit underneath my boards quite comfortably, the problem is wearing vari-focals - you are pretty close to what you are actually doing - so you move back a little, and then you can't reach, or you move in close, and it's to close. Trying to thread a point rod, though the point tie-bar which you can't actually see takes a great deal of patience. Next points to be wired are two three-way asymmetrical points - wish me luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yelrow Posted April 6, 2015 Share Posted April 6, 2015 Have you tried walking downstairs wearing them, or should i say, falling downstars. Absolute pain. Nagged into them as had 3 pairs before, and for ever, misplacing one. Wish i could permanently, misplace these. Would not be so bad, but needed a second motgage to buy them PJ, dont think you spell pain like that, so we will glaze over it 2OED. have 3 acres, of grass/ weeds. Just invested in pull along outfit, with 12 volt rechargeable battery. Puts out fair distance, with 2 jets. Great piece of kit. john Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2e0dtoeric Posted April 6, 2015 Share Posted April 6, 2015 I'm not sure how big my patch of land is, but it's definitely a back-acher!Working on it in between rain showers (not today!) the weeds seem to grow faster than I can dig them out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The son of Triangman Posted April 7, 2015 Author Share Posted April 7, 2015 Well the dock shunter got the workshop treatment this weekend and now runs like a bullet. All this loco needed was a new bulb holder and a good s/h motor brush and a lot of cleaning, lubrication, electrical checks and tlc. It's a shame the printing on the body isn't the best./media/tinymce_upload/825.JPG/media/tinymce_upload/831.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
37lover Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 SoT; is that a home made bulb holder? Very neat job if it is. Shunter looks stunning, so clean! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PJ_model_trains Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 Hi SoT, that looks stunning.A shunter runs like a bullet ;o) I know what you mean LOL.I would have just one small concern, how much heat could be generated from the bulb when encased?I don't mean this to be a dampener, just a cautious consideration. It really does loook good.PJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2e0dtoeric Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 Nothing wrong with the printing - they only got cleaned when they went in for a major overhaul (if ever!) and they were naturally tatty. It's the nature of the beast! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The son of Triangman Posted April 7, 2015 Author Share Posted April 7, 2015 Glad you like my handywork guys. The brass light shield acts as a heat conductor for the bulb, all Tri-ang dock shunters have them or should do. What you see is 100% factory as per service sheet 12b. The bulb never causes any heat problems with the body thankfully, the heat/light shield takes the heat away from the plastic. Having the hole in the front of the model makes the thing air cooled too as it moves along the track, so bulbs last a long time, in this case 40+ years at a guess. I put it on the test layout and applied a 9v battery to the rails for the first test and the thing nearly took off, boy can it go on just 9V. Cracking little locos they are when in good fettle, every collection should have one.Wish Hornby would make the model today just as it was but with the 1970's finer smooth wheelsets, LED light and DCC socket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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