Cardboard Models

[Fraser87]

Hi,

 

I have returns to my model railway since it was packed away as a teenager and recently I have set it up in my attic so my daughter can enjoy the hobb at the age of 6.

 

I have recently been building the scaledale cardboard models for the railway which go together great. However after a couple of days in the attic they start to fall apart and the glue seems to unset.

 

the attic is dry but could maybe do with the foil insulation on the roof.

 

any ideas if this is due to temperature and what glue is best for this. I have been using pritt stick which seems to hold well at room temperature for sure.

 

Thank You.

[walkingthedog]

UHU or PVA is best. I mainly use PVA.

[Fraser87]

UHU or PVA is best. I mainly use PVA.

That's great thanks. I have a tube of PVA somewhere.

[Bulleidboy]

You could also try Rocket Card Glue.

[NWR-Gordon-4]

I am sure super glue will do the trick, for many years to come!  😆

 

GNR-Gordon-4 (HF)

[walkingthedog]

No not super glue. Too expensive considering the amount required and useless for card. 

[RB51]

I agree with BB - Rocket Card Glue. Virtually instant. R-

[NWR-Gordon-4]

@walkingthedog

 

Is super glue useless with card? I thought it is good stuff.

 

GNR-Gordon-4 (HF)

[walkingthedog]

Super glue doesn't stick everything.

[TrainDriverJ]

Metcalfe card kits, arguably one of the leaders in model railway kits (whom I would assume want their products seen in the best possible light) recommend UHU glue and the use of a fine applicator bottle in order to apply the glue directly to small parts.

 

Here is the link

https://www.metcalfemodels.com/product-category/tools/

 

Having built numerous card and paper kits I would IMHO testify to this being the best method. UHU is a bit more “rubbery/gel like” than PVA and can rubbed away very carefully. Applied from the applicator bottle you should never make a mistake anyway - if you take care. I haven’t subjected any models to any temperature extremes but they are rock solid and have never shown any hint of falling apart. When finished spray with artists matt varnish. This does not affect the look and will offer protection to discolouring, dust and accidents. After all you have just spent many precious hours building them.

 

If you use the applicator bottle the glue does not set, however, just to avoid this happening if left for a long period of time, after each session I top up the bottle from the tube to keep out any air. Get the UHU glue from “Quality Save shops” or alike as you can pick up really big tubes for a couple of quid.

 

If you feel like this is a method worth trying, give it a go, take it up to the attic, and let us know what happens.

[walkingthedog]

I had PVA/UHU glued Metcalfe and Superquick buildings on my very hot/very cold loft layout for years, and the are still OK now they are in the spare room. 

[RDS]

I always use the White Wood Glue for sticking Cardboard, which I guess is strong PVA.  It's very good!

[NWR-Gordon-4]

@walkingthedog

 

I didn't know that. Thank you for letting me know, Brian.  😀

 

GNR-Gordon-4 (HF)

[walkingthedog]

No problem Jacob. It sticks fingers better than cardboard. 

[NWR-Gordon-4]

It certainly does!  😆 😉 😀

 

GNR-Gordon-4 (HF)

[JJ73]

I second that Jacob & Brian about super glue!!!

It sticks fingers better than cardboard. 

😆 😉 ☹️

Many a times when I wanted to stick some thing together with super glue - ended up sticking my fingers together rather than the 2 bits that I wanted to stick together!!!  ☹️

[Buz]

Hi all

I would also spray card kit parts with FLAT artists varnish as well this helps with the tendency to warp if there is the risk that it gets gets damp (High Humidity) as well as hot cold hot cold.

Hi GNR-Gordon-4

Super glue only works if the joint is very a very neat tight joint it doesn't work on porous things like paper,

Its only use for paper is to stiffen it up and should only be done if finished part is to be painted and it takes ages for the super glue to dry.

You need super glue for difficult surfaces for a lot of plastic's.

There is more than one kind of super glue and its a right glue for right job thing if going anywhere near foam

IE foam core board building TV antenna you must make sure you have foam safe super glue or watch the building foam dissolve.

But for some reason no matter which breed of super glue you have it is all excellent for finger sticking 😆

A raid on the domestic authorities make up case might yield nail polish remover if this is the one WITH ACETONE in it, it will de-solve the super glue

regards John

[LCDR]

I am firmly in the White Wood Glue / PVA camp when it comes to sticking card, paper or wood. I have also used it to stick coal and sand to cardboard when making loads for wagons.

 

Note PVA will not stick plastic very well, either to more plastic or to card or wood so an impact adhesive is better for that (UHU or Evostick to stick plastic to card or wood, liquid poly to stick polystyrene etc. to itself) . I still haven't found a glue to stick polythene reliably.

[Derek 19B]

For me it's Rocket glue , tried UHU when I ran out , glue all over the place doesn't set quick enough.

On the temperature it will be no problem all mine are fine after a hot Cyprus summer 3 months of high 30s to nights of high 20s.

[96RAF]

I use UHU for building card kits, but hate the stringyness of it. I love balsa cement as it is clean and dries quickly but it shrinks as it dries and distorts the joints.

 

I have a large bottle of paper and card white glue that I found in a craft shop, which I reckon is just PVA and I use that to refill my fine applicator bottle. I bought it originally for sticking paper download-printouts to card.

 

I sprayed all my buildings inside and out with Halfords clear acrylic to damp proof them and protect against the harsh sunlight fading them in Cyprus. So far they are all rock solid and have not deteriorated in any way.

[Gricer]

Can I add my vote for the PVA glue? I first used DIY PVA/wood glue and found it great - but realised that this is expensive. Of course it is designed to be strong enough to glue a couple of wood planks together! The PVA available from Early Leaning Centre or High Street stationers is lighter but much cheaper. Many years ago I bought a 5 litre bottle normally sold to schools and play groups. It’s now gone rather gloopy but it has paid for itself. Many of my card kits – particularly the Superquick brand - were made 30+ years ago and still survive in my railway shed at the end of the garden. Over the years I have replaced some due to warping through temperature extremes but never to glue failures.  One tip to stop those boring minutes holding card together until the PVA glue goes off. Use paper clips or washing line pegs. If necessary put an offcut of cardboard or felt between the peg and card to stop the risk of pegs causing indents.  

[The Doc]

I would add to this that I recommend Evostick for sticking the plastic windows to the card - smelly but dries quickly.  I think that some card model manufacturers suggest that sticky tape can be used, but in my slightly damp garage it tends to come unstuck after a while - hence the use of Evostick instead.

[Fraser87]

Thanks folks. I have some PVA so I will try that first but I think I will buy some UHU in the new year and give that a go as well. 

All your ideas appear to be better than my pritt stick!!!!

 

Thanks for the quick and in depth reply's, appreciate it.

[96RAF]

You can get large tubes of UHU in most ££ shops.

[Rog RJ]

I would add to this that I recommend Evostick for sticking the plastic windows to the card - smelly but dries quickly.  I think that some card model manufacturers suggest that sticky tape can be used, but in my slightly damp garage it tends to come unstuck after a while - hence the use of Evostick instead.

I like Evostik for Windows too.  People say it's too stringy but I use the stringiness to form a nice straight line of adhesive around the window edges so that it doesn't make a mess.  Sellotape usually dries out after a while and the windows fall out.