Fishmanoz

Marcus, I’m not doubting what you saw between an 8001 with capacitor removed and an 8029 but there is no logic to it. The 8001 without capacitor and 8029 should be electrically and physically exactly the same as each other. So different behaviour of a loco on one v the other is a mystery.

Haven’t dug out my slide rule to check your calculations at the fundamental frequency ateshci but this I do know - we are talking about square waves here, not sinusoidal, and that means that, as well as the fundamental, Mr Fourier will tell you there is a whole series of harmonics present as well. At each increasing harmonic, the reactance drops and the signal is degraded from square towards sinusoidal and outside the DCC spec. This is what causes the running problems with the decoders and why the capacitor must be removed. Also, some decoders are more sensitive to this than others meaning some locos will work fine, others not.

Point taken Bee but I still support X’s right to correct wrong info in their post and Y’s to subsequently remove theirs. And I reserve the right to demur from Hornby’s business decision Rog. But then, we have a major sport in this world, Tennis, which has rules to confirm wrong decisions, line calls, are correct unless they are appealed immediately, with the window to appeal shutting as soon as a subsequent shot is attempted. Except the Aust Open where Hawkeye makes all line calls so none can be considered wrong. And all this while other sports strive to get decisions correct with technology.

To repeat - all ridiculous. Why any sane person wants to limit the ability of a poster to improve what they’ve put on the forum in the first place is completely beyond me. As many will know, I like to refer people back to previous content. Often when that previous included posts from me, I discovered edits or minor errors which I have then fixed. Consequently, I can then refer people back to the correct info, not incl my previous mistakes. Direct message the mods - has always been possible under the heading of Report a Post.

Or to put it another way, the dongle just turns the app into a remote controller for your Elite or Select using the app’s GUI. And just because you can only run 9 at a time doesn’t mean you can’t set up more then just use the 9 you want.

Try Tillig flex, matches perfectly.

Still see no reason whatsoever for a limit. Can you now edit titles too? That’s necessary over extended periods so you can start with a title for a problem and a month later edit to show a solution found.

Try setting the address on your controller to 1000 and see what happens.

Given it meets the KISS definition, and if Murphy is asleep, nothing of course.

Clearly once the problem of getting from either a DC PSU or a DCC controller to a distribution point is solved (what is covered in this thread), the next step is to run a bus from that distribution point then droppers soldered to the track around the layout and to the bus.

As already stated, this is an HM | DCC HM7000 question and hopefully a Mod will move your topic to that forum. There you’ll find the choc block solution in the first photo gets mention in multiple threads.

Given this thread below, I suggest you check CV19 to see if that is misbehaving:

Don’t need a stepladder these days either, just fire your camera drone up and Bob’s your uncle.

You have read the posts showing some other controllers with Xpressnet are compatible?

For any of the 0-6-0s, we don’t know if non-sound HM7000s will fit. And any sound versions would be way in the future with smaller MkIIs if ever. But you can certainly go conventional with dongle for these. Unless you go for major surgery, as covered in the sticky thread on the 08s.

I can’t see how the track output of any NMRA compliant DCC controller can be construed as limited to Hornby?

@Cedric HKIf you don’t have a DCC Controller now, then do you have any conventional DCC fitted locos you want to control? If the answer is no, you could just stick with HM7000 using an approved DC PSU and never need a DCC controller or the dongle? That will save you a lot of expense. If you do have conventional DCC decoders to control, then probably the cheapest solution is a second hand Select, with firmware upgrade to v1.6, plus the dongle, as covered above.

There’s a lot more than Hornby in Rob’s OP at the start of this thread. So not correct.

Simple answer here - remove the clock. It is both detrimental and unnecessary. If Chris was still around, he’d be going mental. He often said he opened tabs then composed posts over extended periods.

I’d have thought cap across the outputs with correct polarity and resistor in series with either output? Check by googling a bridge rectifier schematic to confirm polarity That drops the output voltage to around the nominal 12V for the LEDs (especially for DCC track power which is above 12V) and increases the cap discharge time giving the fade-out when power removed. Or more correctly, reduces the current draw and brightness.

May I suggest people start by reading my post towards the bottom of page 2 of the thread I linked above. In summary, the original “faulty” R3 curves needed distressing to make the correct circle but were dimensionally correct and certainly didn’t require rail ends to be adjusted or filed to make them so. Consequently, I’m quite surprised and concerned by HST’s post and definitely suggest you test any older R3 curves you have to confirm correct fit, after distressing if necessary, before getting out the file. And I just did a comparison using the R3 curves which were unused from my digital Scotsman set delivered last year and can confirm these didn’t need any adjustment before making the correct 706mm circle without reverse camber. That corroborates what all have said about later batches being correct.

You might like to tell us what model point motor you have? You say surface mount but not which brand.

Powering from any NMRA compliant DCC controller is item 1 in the compliant/non-compliant power supply sticky at the top of this forum. Which of course includes Select, eLink or Elite.

I think the forum scales are way on the side of this being a good piece of kit.

Sure looks that way and one possibility eliminated.