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Jinty 0-6-0 motor for DCC operation


DJN

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I am looking for an 0-6-0 "Jinty" tank engine with a view to DCC conversion.

I note there are several variants in LMS maroon livery that are DCC compatible.


The older one has a Ringfield motor and the 2009 version is, I presume, made in

China with a sealed motor.

Would there be any difference from the point of view of the ease of conversion? Also which motor would be best, in DCC form ,for shunting?

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Are you referring to Hornby Jinty models? None have been fitted with either a Ringfield or a sealed motor. The earliest used a X04/X03 long open-frame motor before adopting the still current square open-frame motor as suggested by 96RAF. Bachmann have also made the Jinty and this uses a can (sealed) motor.

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I read about a Hornby version (no. 16440) on the Hattons web-site,

that was described as having a Ringfield motor. - they have sold out.

I also came across the term "slot-car" motor which I guess means open-frame.

The reference from 96RAF looks like what I need to emulate for DCC wiring .

Thx

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The only steam tank locos I've encountered with a ringfield type motor (vertically mounted large flat armature surrounded by a circular magnet) are some very cheap old Lima models and the early Mainline / Bachmann J72. There may be some others with ringfields but they are far more common in tender drive locos and bogie diesels/electrics.

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Not relevant to the original question, but in addition to ntp’s recollections:

The Castle tooling that Hornby bought from Dapol (in late 90s/early 00s) had a ringfield motor. Unusually despite being a tender loco - it was loco drive, the ringfield motor was within the firebox/boiler.

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Well I've ordered a second hand LMS maroon Jinty from Hattons .

It looks identical to a more expensive "mint" offering on eBay (without a box).

If so it will have a type 'M' motor. Perhaps even a DCC socket, but I ain't

counting on that.

The slot car fraternity use the term "strap motor" for the motors in some vintage

F1 slots.

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  • 2 weeks later...

If you look on the New Modellers Shop product page there is a link to the chassis mods necessary when installing the DCC ready motor to an earlier chassis.

BTW you can bin the capacitor and ferrite man if going DCC as the decoder sorts out RF interefence .

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  • 1 month later...

Thanks for those tips and the info re motors. The most difficult part of this exercise was re-fitting the body shell _ I made a loose sleeve from insulation tape to hold the decoder in the smoke box with the plug alongside.forum_image_658daf8d61545.thumb.png.c9bad0d53f879039922837fda600f1b7.png

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