Deem Posted June 27 Share Posted June 27 24 minutes ago, RB51 said: Done. R- Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andys steam dayz Posted June 28 Share Posted June 28 I think when buying this loco Hornby should supply a couple of plugs where you access the water filler as they are very small and easily lost they could put them in the accessory pack and make them available for purchase so if you do lose one you can get a replacement Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Going Spare Posted June 28 Share Posted June 28 Seems a good, low-cost idea. Put the suggestion to Customer Services. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Britannia Builder Posted June 28 Share Posted June 28 Sadly my FS has started to misbehave. The chuffing sound cuts in and out randomly; the other sounds are OK. I suspect that the decoder isn't getting the signal from the rotating driving wheel to tell it when to chuff. It typically cuts in and out several times in a circuit of the track, and tends to cut in if the speed is changed. I've seen reports from other recent models that the new push-fit loco to tender connector can be unreliable, and I wonder if this is the problem? Being aware of this weakness, I hadn't disconnected the tender, but I did turn the whole model over this morning to fit a Kadee coupling, so this may have disturbed the connector. Is there anything I can safely do to improve the connection? I don't really want to have to send the loco back. Regards, John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dukedog. Posted June 28 Share Posted June 28 I had a isuse with that as well mine the loco just stopped but still had all the sounds i just gave a little push together and been all good since, and the leak from under the smoke door been sorted after a call to hornby towers and a quick cv reset sorted that. Dukedog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted June 28 Share Posted June 28 Is there a build up of oil or dirt on the 'chuffing wheel' or wherever the detector is? Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Britannia Builder Posted June 28 Share Posted June 28 1 hour ago, atom3624 said: Is there a build up of oil or dirt on the 'chuffing wheel' The loco is brand new and I haven't oiled it, so I don't think this is likely to be the problem. It would be interesting to know where the 'chuffing wheel' is and how it talks to the decoder. I've now pulled the loco and tender apart and reconnected them, and this doesn't seem to have changed anything. I've also tried a CV8=8 reset. The problem is actually more consistent than I had realised - it rolls silently up to a certain speed, and then the chuffing cuts in. Using the app to see the exact speed setting, it cuts in at 35 on the app speed slider control, and cuts out again below that speed. It also cuts out at low speed in reverse, so it's not an issue of the pull on the loco-tender connection. Yesterday it all worked perfectly and I can't see what's changed. It doesn't now look like a random bad connection between loco and tender - that would surely not be so consistent as to the speed setting? Regards, John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LTSR_NSE Posted June 28 Share Posted June 28 @Britannia Builder the disc is located on one of the axles (a sensor detects perforations/marks on the disc to determine speed for chuff synch.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dukedog. Posted June 28 Share Posted June 28 Sorry my bad i should have sai CV211 set to 60 from 65 CV212 set to 45 from 50 Dukedog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted June 28 Share Posted June 28 Synchronising disc or wheel is a bit of a mouthful, hence my humorous 'creation' perhaps 'the chuffing wheel'! It does strike at poor recognition - albeit visible or electronic (perhaps a broken or loose wire somewhere). I hope you get it easily resolved - the programming should be robust, hence my thinking of visual or poor contact. Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Britannia Builder Posted June 28 Share Posted June 28 1 hour ago, Dukedog. said: CV211 set to 60 from 65 CV212 set to 45 from 50 That's interesting, I hadn't noticed these CVs (page 86 of the famous manual on the SS system hasn't been written yet). However, these CVs seem to control the amount of steam emitted per chuff, which isn't my main problem, although I can see that reducing them might avoid flooding/chimney blockage. 51 minutes ago, atom3624 said: It does strike at poor recognition - albeit visible or electronic (perhaps a broken or loose wire somewhere). I agree - for whatever reason, I don't think that the wheel rotation signals are getting through at lower speeds. The loco-tender connector appears to have 4 contacts on the top and bottom of the loco tongue. Two of these must be for track power from loco to tender and two for motor current from decoder to loco. I guess that two also carry the signal from the timing wheel to the decoder? It looks as though I may have to send the loco back - I'll talk to HM7000 support next week. Regards, John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LesXRN Posted June 29 Author Share Posted June 29 I just watched a YT video of one randomly missing exhaust beats. It's clearly not working as it should. On a positive note, mine has finally been retrieved from the wrong address that DPD left it at and is now in safe hands. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Britannia Builder Posted June 29 Share Posted June 29 A few further observations: The ASU chuff sensor appears to be a metal disc about 3 mm in diameter embedded in the chassis sidewall behind the middle left driver. There's no sign of markings or magnets on the wheel, so it must be somehow sensing the passing of the spokes? The manual says that there is a special complex speed curve for ASU locos and that CV 29 is set to 18 by default to enable this - my CV 29 was set to 2, so I changed it to 18 but it made no obvious difference. If I push the loco and tender firmly together it works correctly for a few minutes even at low speeds, which does point cleary to a faulty connector. Strange that even when it stops working at low speeds it always cuts in again at exactly 36 on the app speed slider. It doesn't look as though there's any way to improve the connector contact - the springy contacts are hidden inside the slot on the tender end. So I'll have to send it back. Regards, John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LesXRN Posted June 29 Author Share Posted June 29 That's a shame BB, I hope mine works, as sending it back from France isn't straight forward nowadays. We shall see. Knowing me, I would probably try to hardwire in one of the small white connectors, I've already done that on some steam loco's that I converted to DCC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Britannia Builder Posted June 30 Share Posted June 30 Still puzzling about why the chuffing works reliably above a certain speed setting, I searched this forum for 'ASU' and found the following comment from Rob: It seems that the decoder switches from sensing the wheel rotation to using the complex speed curve above a certain speed setting, which explains the behaviour. So my problem is just an unreliable loco-tender connection affecting the chuff sensor. Regards, John 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulleidboy Posted June 30 Share Posted June 30 Mine has arrived safely. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted June 30 Share Posted June 30 27 minutes ago, Britannia Builder said: Still puzzling about why the chuffing works reliably above a certain speed setting, I searched this forum for 'ASU' and found the following comment from Rob: It seems that the decoder switches from sensing the wheel rotation to using the complex speed curve above a certain speed setting, which explains the behaviour. So my problem is just an unreliable loco-tender connection affecting the chuff sensor. Regards, John I have asked Hornby tech to confirm the changeover point as that could be vital to trouble shooting this problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted June 30 Share Posted June 30 52 minutes ago, Bulleidboy said: Mine has arrived safely. Looks great BB, and in my eyes, the colours look spot on (for once!!) Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulleidboy Posted June 30 Share Posted June 30 I agree Al - it really does look superb. I need to get some de-ionised water (trip to Halfords) so I can give the steam a try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aussie Fred Posted June 30 Share Posted June 30 On reading all these problems, I don't think I will be welcolming my new FS when it arrives next week. Why can't these things be nice and simple like they used to be. While the original pin connection on the model I first got was a worry, at least the decoder was in the loco, it appears this new-fangled connection to a decoder in the tender does not sound too good to me. Sounds like I flushed A$500 down the drain and it hasn't even arrived yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brew Man Posted June 30 Share Posted June 30 Don't be so pessimistic, Fred. You might get the golden ticket in the pile. 😊 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Britannia Builder Posted June 30 Share Posted June 30 Yes, it's a superb model and the steam effect is excellent. I've just been unlucky with the new loco-tender connection - I'm sure that Hornby will sort it out. Regards, John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulleidboy Posted June 30 Share Posted June 30 I do not appear to have the pipette for adding the water - not a problem as I have several. Had a quick look on Amazon - they are very cheap but only appear to come in packs of 100 or more!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir john Posted June 30 Share Posted June 30 I thought the same but it was tucked underneath the inner plastic box Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir john Posted June 30 Share Posted June 30 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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