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walkingthedog

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Everything posted by walkingthedog

  1. They used to have a cranked lever on one side that operated the tie bar. /media/tinymce_upload/98f3b805531bcd6e578f396ec9698e16.JPG
  2. If you are soldering wire to the track, tin the wire, tin the track, touch wire to track, touch soldering iron to wire/track. Only two hands required. 😆
  3. RDS thank you for removing the text from this post, it needed to be done. Leaving the title in situ as you have done is the ideal way to deal with this sort of thing as it saves people fruitlessly searching for it if it is removed entirely as was done earlier today on another post.
  4. I think I may be buying one of those. Quite like the black version though.
  5. Or even my advice and practice your soldering, well worthwhile.
  6. Thatis an incredibly informative picture LC. Thank you.
  7. If glue was any good it would be used by many of us. Nothing is a substitute for soldering apart from screw connections or perhaps the correct size scotchlocks. Practice your soldering, it is difficult to run a model railway without it.
  8. According to Hornby the 6 pin with harness fits.
  9. I agree Rob. Just nitpicking as far as I'm concerned. It's a ready to run model loco. If you're worried about little things like that get a hand built scale model.
  10. I added a pickup to the non driven centre wheel as that didn't have a tyre. As long as both sides of the loco have pickups it should be OK. Bachmann didn't used to have any pickups on the tenders and they worked fine. No longer own any tender drive locos.
  11. Don't think it was in mine last year. Haven't rejoined this year. Give them a ring and ask. I just went through the process and it said Hornby Collectors Club with free loco. Not separate bit for the loco.
  12. There is absolutely nothing wrong with running DCC on DC. It's the other way round that is not a good idea. Perhaps DC running has been disabled. I believe the purple wire is often not used.
  13. Modelnut the quartering can't change as it runs. It is either wrong or correct. Glad the OP solved his problem.
  14. Does seem a strange choice. Having said that John West have started to sell tuna etc. in plastic tubs instead of tins. However the plastic is biodegradable so maybe the Hornby plastic is the same. If the plastic is new and isn't biodegradable then I think we should make a fuss.
  15. Welcome Captain Control. If it works for you then that's the way to do it. Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) is by far the best cleaning fluid. Doesn't leave any residue.
  16. Metcalfe kits do seem to make you start building as soon as you open the packet. Ooh I wonder how that goes together..............before you know it you are surrounded by glue and bulldog clips.
  17. Rob in case you don't know, arches are 4 inches wide and 5 1/8 inches between centres.
  18. Or these. Real bargain. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Model-Railway-Manual-Point-Levers-Any-Scale-x6/264642870397?hash=item3d9df1bc7d:g:xSwAAOSwafJeUA2M
  19. You would have to adapt it. Not too expensive. Have a go.
  20. How about this. Meant for O gauge so you should be able to adapt it easily for OO. Have you tried searching for yourself. I came straight up with this. https://peco-uk.com/products/point-lever
  21. It's a left hand point with the same number so it's the same left hand point. Like you say different packaging.
  22. They only solve the gradient problem if it is not seen. If you want a gradient actually on the layout in the scenery it would look a bit daft, unless if course it was in a mountain as they are in the USA and Canada.
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