Kenneth ONeill

Other than cyano-acrylate, I've yet to meet any sort of styrene glue that can structurally bond components and isn't a slovent.

Link and length ahead of "rubber bands" every time, particularly on types (eg Panzer V and later, T-34...) that don't have return rollers!

Given you've said "DBR9" I'm thinking "racing car", in which case, if you have to apply decals to the body I'd suggest H22 gloss white, let that dry for 2 or 3 days, decal, let them dry for a week, then a light coat of well-stirred silk varnish.

Very 1960s, apart from the reflective (rather than black and white) number plates.

2 "gotchas" here - the aircraft serials for "the squadron's" aircraft may not be sequential, so just because they had DB201 does not mean that they had any, never mind all, of DB189 to DB200 or DB202 to DB212. Also, the individual aircraft codes are semi-random. For example, on "Operation Chastise", the squadron commander, Guy Gibson, flew AJ-G, flight commander "Dinghy" Young flew AJ-A. (Details cross-checked on Wikipedia)

Aside from anything else, even if we assume that all propellers of diameter D meters are spun at theta degrees per second a 2 blade prop (eg early Spitfire Mk I, Gladiator Mk I) will still look different to the 8 blade props on the latest turboprop transports.

More specifically, why is the login button deactivated?

Eduard tampo-printed pre-miscoloured photo etched is a step too far IMO. Older sets where the panel was bare brass relief etched, with a photo film backing for the gauges produced a much better result by paint and dry brush the panel face and paint the reverse of the film white for gauge needles and markings.

And no other site I use has felt such an obtrusive "cookies popup" necessary, even on a temporary basis,

The railbus has full glazing, but no interior other than the floor. The Deltic is the prototype (different ends and side detail to a production locomotive) and has adequate cab detail but no engine room detail, and no glazing. Dapol report this runner as "lost" and sometimes include a piece of clear plastic sheet.

As above, with the note that the stand location always used to be at or around the unballasted CoG of the model.

Well, back at the "should you varnish?" question. YES! The reason that gloss varnish reduces/prevents silvering is that it stops air getting trapped under the clear film carrier of the decals between that and the slightly rough matt paint.

Looks good. As an aside, if you get a bottle of Clearfix and a cocktail stick, you can glaze the cab windscreens and side windows with that.

How about doing a convertion to Britannic, Olympic, or even the Liverpool Adelphi Hotel? :-) (As an aside the hotel interiors were actually designed to resemble first class accomodation on the liners, and I know this because I've stayed in the hotel)

And, of course, there was the case of the one flight that landed in Brazil, where the Shrikes had mysteriously become Sidewinders when they landed.

My Airfix Sabre F (The Huff) has the 6/3 wing (easiest point to distinguish by being that the wing root with a 6/3 wing extends over the trailing edge of the gun bay).

The interior's "basic", but llever have the old xobhctam Tempest V/II tool.

The interior's "basic", but llever have the old xobhctam Tempest V/II tool.

Heller 1/16 Citroen DS Cabriolet. Engine and gearbox are about built. Trying to select a tasteful colourway for bodywork and interior since the body panels are moulded in red (as per box art) and most of the interior panels (except the fascia which wasn't this colour anyway) are caramel!

Agreed; Flea-bay, like any other auction, is potentially pathological, so it depends partly on the subjects. Long out of prodiction ones such as the Austin Maxi. Morris Marina and Sunbeam Rapier will be worth more than things like the Supermarine Spitfire IX or the railway stock kits,

Relleh 1/16 scale Citroen DS cabriolet. Not a brilliant tool, but who else makes a kit of a pre-facelift DS? (I do know of a post-facelift DS Pallas)

That's entirely true up to a point. The question is more "can you live with or easily correct the errors?" For example, one maker releaset the Saab Viggen tools as a "JA-35". They did include the cannon, air to air missiles and revised air brakes, but the fuselage of the JA-35 is 6 inches (2mm in 1.72 scale) longer than all the other variants due to changes in the engine. It also has an extra actuator for the main wing trailing edge surfaces (4 rather than 3 each side). Now, I can live with it being "too short" since you need a subject expert to spot that, but the extra actuator fairing needs attended to. Fortunately, they happen to be the same width as the spare pylon not used on a JA-35.

Well, it's well-known that llever bought all the xobhctam 1/76 scale armour and 1/700 scale ship tools. Complaint about "old tools" in these cases are really "I don't know the history of model-making". For example, who else does a 1/76 (or 1.72 for that matter) Comet tank or "Monyt's caravan" se?

^ THAT! I was thinking the exact same thing about needing a new tool for a Wildcat.

If you can get them in the "right colours" then polycarbonate (and/or) Lexan paints might be good for PCV figures, but test on one figure before doing a whole batch.