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Rog RJ

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Everything posted by Rog RJ

  1. I posted earlier that I don't think there's enough room for the full name, so I just listed it as Scotty. Strange that my earlier post has disappeared.
  2. Read CV8 to get the manufacturers ID number. You can then look up this number on the NMRA site to find the manufacturer. https://www.nmra.org/sites/default/files/standards/sandrp/pdf/appendix_a_s-9_2_2_5.pdf Edit. Rob posted while I was trying to make my link clickable. Failed yet again.
  3. This is where a multimeter would be useful to see if both coils are ok. One may have been burnt out while you had the wrong switches in circuit. Can you detect any burnt smell from the motor?
  4. I would try superglue used with activator spray to set it instantly. Clean off all traces of the old glue. Mask off as much as possible before starting to avoid white marks and staining, then apply glue and hold parts in place, then a quick squirt with activator for an instant bond.
  5. Service sheet at Lendons https://www.lendonsmodelshop.co.uk/pdf/Airfix%20Locomotive%20Service%20Sheets/A1A.pdf Shows clips inside the frame
  6. It depends what locos you are running.
  7. You need to do a stall current test to find the maximum current that the motors take and ensure it is less than the maximum current that the decoders can supply. Old models take a lot more current than modern models.
  8. Could be tight gears or bearings/bushes.
  9. On DCC you can alter decoder CV29 to reverse the default direction.
  10. There are quite a few cases of various decoders not working in some models but work well in others. It's not just Hornby decoders either, even some of the more highly regarded decoders have been seen to exhibit this problem.
  11. There's a long thread on RMWEB about Modelmaster. Seems an extremely difficult company to deal with. Lots of people appear to have lost money with them.
  12. Android app is not available yet. Expected shortly apparently. (A week or three)
  13. The motor is probably demanding more current than the decoder can supply, they are a bit limited in their power handling capacity. Turning the sound volume down may help a bit.
  14. I've just posted, edited and then deleted a test post with no trouble at all using Chrome on Samsung tablet.
  15. "their customer service seems very slow to reply" This is normal. If you want it dealt with promptly you should phone them.
  16. The clicking could be a split gear, sadly, it's a pretty common problem.
  17. Colin, there is no need to paste the whole of the eBay link, just the first part upto the question mark is needed. Like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304775763105 Hope you (and others) find this useful to know
  18. Have a look on uk model shops directory. https://www.ukmodelshops.co.uk/modelshops.html
  19. How are you (trying to) turning the head and tail lights on when you aren't using F28?
  20. The chances are that the controller is just not up to the job and a better, more powerful controller is needed.
  21. Is this a live frog or insulfrog double slip? You may need to fit some form of frog switching. Brian Lambert's site has lots of help with wiring and most other aspects of model railways. https://www.brian-lambert.co.uk/DCC-Page-1.html
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