Rog RJ

I agree, they are used with the mail coach set. They only fit in certain places where the track pieces have small recesses moulded in to them. They don't fit flexi track.

Are you using lead free solder? I assume you are using nickel silver track. Soldering temperature of 360⁰ should be OK for leaded solder but a bit low for lead free. What soldering iron ars you using?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/385399113674

What controller (Command Sation) are you using. Hornby Select & Elite have a simple way of reversing engine direction without having to get into CV settings. Don't know about Railmaster.

This may help https://uk.hornby.com/community/forum/amazon-fire-tablet-369517

Should be LNER garter blue.

The power dissipated by an additional resistor in the supply is the current in amps multiplied by the voltage across the resistor. An alternative formula is current squared multiplied by the resistance. A quarter watt resistor should be more than adequate.

20ma is the maximum current rating. For a long life reduce the working current as much as possible (by using higher value resistors) while still having the LEDs at a reasonable brightness level. Some modern LEDs can be used at 5ma or less! https://ledcalculator.net Calculations for 150ohm resistors - https://ledcalculator.net/#p=5&v=3.3&c=12&n=2&o=w

Is this it? https://uk.hornby.com/community/forum/hm-dcc-not-working-on-ipad-air-368035#post-368941

You don't want tin/lead solder in contact with mazak as it's believed that lead contamination is the cause of mazak rot. Drilling and tapping would be the best option IMHO but a self tapping screw into a drilled hole should work.

Could just need a clean and a bit of oil?

I think you may be trying to register on the login page. If you have not previously registered you cannot use the login option. Edit. I see you have now registered successfully.

Thanks Brewman.

What power supply are you using? (had a quick scan through earlier posts but didn't see anything)

Almost certainly the motor bearings. Testing the motor out of the chassis doesn't put any load on it so results can be misleading.

See "Important Information for New Members Registering for the Forum (Updated 29th March 2023)

Like this - https://uk.hornby.com/products/uncoupler-unit-r8244?gclid=Cj0KCQjw9MCnBhCYARIsAB1WQVVLT3siBN2v3N5yHfpitAqhEMzAHdEWW_dWbi3wZSCDHmD1NBMTB2IaAglcEALw_wcB

It's gone down the list to page 2 of the general discussion section, 9th post down.

Remove the screw at the back then lift and tilt the body forwards to release it from the "pegs" at the front?

See this thread https://uk.hornby.com/community/forum/motor-overcurrent-362309?ccm_paging_p=1#end-of-replies

Very strange. I assume this happens with the tender connected. If so, I can only think that the tender connection isn't working too well so it drags the loco off the rails.

The two top left are dummy screw couplings.

And some have 4 pin!

I notice that if you log in from a different device it will log you out from any other device.

I used superglue and activator to get a reliable bond. Tried superglue on its own at first but it wasn't too successful then I tried it with activator and its been a good solid repair. Use a needle, pin or paper clip to apply the glue so you don't get too much on the joint.