Captain Triggers

It can be fashionably late because it's a Jaaag

I wouldn't bother with a starter set, get the same kit as a seperate kit e.g A01071B (1/72 Spitfire MK1a), and spend some more of the budget on flat brushes, liquid cement, primer from a hardwear of car parts store and a couple of relevant paints, maybe ammo or revell. You can find relevant paint colour conversion charts online. It will cost more initially but you will bypass things like tube glue and starter set "paint".

Me mum

First: 70s tool 1/72 spitfire VB, 2011ish. Last: Hurricane Mk1 newish tool, March 2021.

Quite weak yes, but when treated with some aerosol clear matte from the range, or some other store like that, but the finish is much better than the included gloom.

Oh dear. I'm 40 years away from a bus pass. expressionless

Can't say the stock in my local interests me... Still need to have a mooch inside at some point but buying supplies there just isn't viable due to have to pay for parking

I'm sure some modern Aston's would also be very floggable. Electric cars just don't capture a potential client's eye. Why client? Because you need enough models of exiting stuff to keep all these people coming back.

I agree, I'd consider the 3d printed spokes as an easy fix for the less experienced, or patient modeller, and I'd consider the steel spokes as being the more accurate option due to the fact that they don't have to layer lines on the spokes that are pretty difficult to remove.

I have my doubts as to how strong the 3d printed wheels are.

Just to add, aldi have some chrome spray paint in

I bought some copper sheet, haven't bought a kit since May. Always loved the twin boom Fokkers, looks like a potentially difficult build mind.

All of them kitted by other companies

Hardly a lack of normal variants you can buy either...

unless you are talking about metalcote, dump the humbrol, get some plastikote or similar brand chrome interior paint, and yes use primer, you might as well just get some black primer from the same brand because it gives a deeper silver finish, and haey presto you have a metal finish model! not alclad level but it'll do! As for decals I'm not so sure but don't use anything that makes the surface glossy. Humbrol decal fix leaves a glossy finish so try some mr mark setter (awful name I know) and job's a goodun!

Wot he sed! And to add, by using superglue, you can glue the track to the individiual wheels thus giving the effect of track sag (after painting of course!).

Wonderful, I might need to buy another! I only have 4, promise!

No doubt someone like freightdog or quickboost or eduard will come up with parts to take what looks like it will be a truly incredible kit to the next level.

See it as advantageous- saves on a gloss varnish before decals! And of course it's personal choice if you want to varnish it gloss or matt afterwards, but I advise to do so as it makes the entire model more "even" looking if that's the right term?

I would suggest avoiding mottles until you have an airbrush, or use aftermarket decals as I believe that they are available. alternatively there are lots of hard edges BF-109 colour schemes.

Hopefully the membership will reset with 1 free year for those who already paid and didn't really benefit!

Scaly as a rule is 32nd, unless it's micro

Depends on the amount of filler wink

I beg to differ about 1/72 and 1/48 being the best, but they certainly are the best fun for the price without having 100000000000000000000000000000000 photoetch parts and not getting 12 different forms of throat cancer from resin sanding, but anything is better than a revell stuka.

Alternative brands are also available...