RDS

Thanks for the feedback of your Decoder being sorted. Lots don't!

Well said John

@Whammo. Could I suggest that the title of your post would have been better if it described your problem. Most people who post on here require help of some sort, so it is perhaps fortunate that they don't all have the same title as your post. I was tempted to amend the title for you but I was unable to work out the problem until I reached your last sentence. When you mention the app, are you are referring to the HM7000 app and have you changed from Bluetooth to DCC to try to get it working with your NCE Power Cab?

@367368, The problems you describe are absolutely of your own doing. There are solutions posted on this Forum in the link that P Henny has posted above. The support for RailMaster is excellent and it is an extremely reliable product when set up correctly. Clearly you have not done that. Out of interest, where did you purchase it from?

He says 6.5v in post from 10:23 this morning

Hi Roland and welcome to the Forum If you are measuring the voltage across the track on the DC scale (assuming you are using the Power Supply that came with eLink), that is the type of reading you will get because DCC produces a 'type of' AC voltage. You should get about 18v if you use the AC scale. You don't mention that you have loaded the RailMaster software on a Windows PC.

Mine arrived today

Hi Mark, welcome to the Forum. HM7000 can be used in either Bluetooth or DCC mode, so yes it can be used with eLink in DCC mode or from an Android or IOS device with Bluetooth. I have changed the title of your post to remove your name and replaced it to describe your question.

Hi Bruce welcome to the Forum It is very much a personal choice but I have Elite connected to RailMaster (no eLink), designed in AnyRail with some HM7000 Decoders. The Stay Alive option available for use with HM7000 Decoders is incredible. My Points are all operated by Hornby Solenoid Motors controlled by RailMaster, or manually.

My Local Model shop had 2 on the shelf last week, (Cleveleys Lancashire) I have also had mine over 10 years. Very pleased.

Hi Siva and welcome to the Forum It sounds like the Loco's required a good service before they were used, as any lubrication that was there before has possibly dried up. If you are able to do this yourself, the common theme about lubricating Loco's is that if you can see the lubrication, you have applied too much. You must use special Model Train lubricant and certainly not 3in1 or WD40 type lubricants. The closest to Model Railway lubricant I believe is something like Sewing Machine oil if you cannot obtain the correct stuff. The track also needs to be spotless and is it possible that your track, having been in storage is the old Steel track, rather than the Nickel Silver used now. A magnet can be used to check. Steel track still works of course but tends to be more unreliable that Nickel Silver. Use a track rubber to clean it, not wire wool etc. Let us know how you get on.

Hi Ryan Welcome to the Forum and the helpful information you have posted. I have made the link clickable so that it is easier to use.

I have been in contact with RailMaster support within the last 24 hours and the response I received was (as usual from my experience) very prompt and comprehensive.

I completely agree. There is nothing worst than reading a title and then wondering what an item is used for and then (in the case of this one) coming to the wrong conclusion because you are not a member of a club.

@Mark - 365845 Did you sort this out?

Hi sante and welcome to the Forum I use a product called AnyRail and this has been updated to include TT scale pieces. It is free to download and use for a limited amount of pieces but I think it should do what you need. (Other packages are available but I have found AnyRail to be ideal for me and the support is good. I upgraded to the full version)

@Peter-365614 Your new thread has been moved to the RailMaster section

RDS Mod Note I have rejected the 3 duplicate posts you submitted against this thread. Please note that pictures are always sent for approval, so do not appear instantly. Hopefully, someone will be able to answer your question.

As far as I am aware, that Loco sold out completely so the original price is unlikely to give any indication of what it will sell for now. In a case like this, it is best to decide what you are prepared to pay and hope that one shows up within your budget.

Very interesting Mr Spigot - Thanks for sharing, although I must admit I cannot see why it worked unless your PC had not been connecting to a WiFi or Ethernet source previously?

The question of DC v DCC has been asked many times but it is generally true to say, that anyone who has used DCC is unlikely to want to use DC ever again. There are exceptions of course! With DCC it is possible to power a complete layout with just one connection (I know because for many years that was exactly how mine was powered including having a lot of Points with Point clips)

Could I suggest that you read and follow carefully the last sticky thread at the top of this RailMaster section, entitled 'RailMaster Help Site' and follow the link at the top of the Post. Your question has been asked many times and is usually cleared by following the information given on this very reliable link. Please let us know how you get on.

RDS Mod Note: I have rotated them back for you now.

The Hornby HM7000 Decoder is a great choice in my view, with provision to add the Hornby Power Bank that is by a long way, the best stay alive system I have used.

Hi and welcome to the Forum. As you are probably aware buying or selling is not allowed via this Forum although it is obviously OK to ask for advice. Old track can be more of a problem than anything else because it is made of steel, which rusts, compared to the modern Nickel Silver track. Despite the fees eBay is probably the best way to sell stuff, although Gumtree is good for local sales without any fees. Other than that Facebook.