Let's see your layouts

[96RAF]

Has anyone got any advice as to how to make the transitions at the top and bottom of an incline. I've tried all sorts of ways on a test board including keeping the trackbed in one piece and bending it up and over, but I still got wheel lifting and associated problems. One thing I have learnt is never have a rail join near the kinks. 

[Bulleidboy]

Has anyone got any advice as to how to make the transitions at the top and bottom of an incline. I've tried all sorts of ways on a test board including keeping the trackbed in one piece and bending it up and over, but I still got wheel lifting and associated problems. One thing I have learnt is never have a rail join near the kinks. 

In an ideal world I don't think you should see the transition at the top and bottom of an incline - they just happen. I do of course appreciate that this all depends on the space available. Where you have wheel lifting, can you not place a piece of card under the track?

[96RAF]

. Where you have wheel lifting, can you not place a piece of card under the track?

Thats akin to increasing the radius of the transition. The plan is to climb over an 80mm bridged crossover in about 3m and back down again in 4m, but even using 6mm ply bent as one piece I can still get lift off at the centre wheels of an 0-6-0 at the bottom and flying of the front then the back wheels at the top. Pacifics are just as back with the front bogie getting loose. Maybe try 9mm ply. The test board by the way is just a 1m long x 100mm wide bit of ply with a length of rail attached anchored flat for 100mm at one end and the other end bent up or down at the equivalent angle of approach to simulate top or bottom transitions.

 

With ref to not seeing the transition, I've see vids of 1:1 trains transitioning banks and they can be quite pronounced humps despite the shortening effect of telephoto lenses.

[PJ_model_trains]

Has anyone got any advice as to how to make the transitions at the top and bottom of an incline. I've tried all sorts of ways on a test board including keeping the trackbed in one piece and bending it up and over, but I still got wheel lifting and associated problems. One thing I have learnt is never have a rail join near the kinks. 

 

Hi RAF

 

I planned to have an incline on my layout when I set out but, in the end decided not to as I could get more track in the layout area whithout the incline and save  myself a few problems I think.

 

Putting that aside, I visualised the issue at the start of the raise and the levelling off at the top. The problem I found was when you add two rigid pieces of track together you are bound to get gradient differences, something to be avoided. In my testing of this, what I did find though was if I used a number of smallest pieces of track in these two areas (the approx 1" pieces R610), it gave a more gradual slope that I was looking for.

 

I understand why you say avoid rail joiners/fishplates near these areas but this way the rail joiners allow that little bit of give to get a more gradual slope.

 

PJ

[96RAF]

 what I did find though was if I used a number of smallest pieces of track in these two areas (the approx 1" pieces R610), it gave a more gradual slope that I was looking for.

Interesting methodology PJ.

[PJ_model_trains]

 what I did find though was if I used a number of smallest pieces of track in these two areas (the approx 1" pieces R610), it gave a more gradual slope that I was looking for.

Interesting methodology PJ.

 

Hi RAF

 

If a carpenter wants to bend a thick piece of timber he can use the cross-cut saw to cut most of the way through it, then the timber will bend taking up the gaps from the cuts. The more cuts the more gradual the bend on the face of the timber.

 

Using that principle, two rigid rails will not bend but a few small pieces of rail give a little, thus creating a gradual bend, and that is what you must aim to achieve for the train to maintain sufficient contact. It is only a small amount of give on each rail joiners/fish plates so has no effect on the passing of current one rail to the next.  ;o)

 

PJ

[96RAF]

 If a carpenter wants to bend a thick piece of timber he can use the cross-cut saw to cut most of the way through it, then the timber will bend taking up the gaps from the cuts. The more cuts the more gradual the bend on the face of the timber.

 

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Stuck in the yellow box again - grrrr..

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Ah yes PJ - the joys of kerfing. Go too deep and it breaks and you start again. Widely used at the bottom of a staircase to make the riser on the first step round ended.

[SteveM6]

/media/tinymce_upload/image98.jpg

View of the station area on my N gauge layout, 'Shaddeholme and West Orton'.

[PJ_model_trains]

 If a carpenter wants to bend a thick piece of timber he can use the cross-cut saw to cut most of the way through it, then the timber will bend taking up the gaps from the cuts. The more cuts the more gradual the bend on the face of the timber.

 

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Stuck in the yellow box again - grrrr..

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Ah yes PJ - the joys of kerfing. Go too deep and it breaks and you start again. Widely used at the bottom of a staircase to make the riser on the first step round ended.

 

Hi RAF

 

You can enter the yellow box if your exit is clear  ;o)  Although many drivers don't even see the yellow box let alone the exit!

 

Anyway, yes you got it in one, also used for kicker boards to kitchen cupboards etc, where a proper job is required.  ;-)  When you want to get round a bend gradually, not go round the bend getting a train to grip the track sufficiently.

 

Try a few small pieces of rail as suggested, you will be surprised how you can get the gradual curve. But for the benefit of all reading as we never know, it is so important to have a good solid base for the track to sit/fix on. For the start of the incline I was using thin MDF but anything with 'a little give' would do. I was bedding on No Nails Glue so that it was solid to the gradual rise I created. That was as far as I got then decided to leave inclines and go for a flat rail layout. It certainly gives me more track per square inch  ;o)

 

PJ

 

[96RAF]

I can see an over/under approach being the way to go. Lower track takes a dive and the upper track a similar jump thus halving the bending requirement but doubling the work.

[PJ_model_trains]

Your layout looks good Steve

Metcalfe's models, platforms and walls are everywhere  ;o)

PJ

[96RAF]

/media/tinymce_upload/image98.jpg

View of the station area on my N gauge layout, 'Shaddeholme and West Orton'.

 

Are those semaphores RTR or hand built Steve.

 

Regardless in N gauge they are a work of art. Far beyond the reacjh of my tired eyes and stiff old fingers.

[john_pimm]

John Pimm, what's the gradient on your incline?  Have you tested your locos going up it yet?  Looks as if it may be a tad steep, shouldn't be more than say 1:40.

Yes i did fishmanoz took a while but i got there in the end, tested it with most of my locos from small stuff to big stuff and adjusted it where i needed it one sode is not finished yet but i used them hornby track stilts or whatever there called then used foam to make the incline and yes PJ alot of work over the weekend i will hopefully have all the ballast down this weekend then will finish the othere incline 

Thanks john

 

Hi John

 

I must admit I thought the same as Fishy, those inclines looked a bit steep but, so long as you have tested then and they work for you, just be sure they are on a solid base so that you don't get any give at all on the track when trains and carriages run up them.  Images sometimes make things look different depending on the angle.

 

Good luck

 

PJ

Yes looking at the pic it does look alot steeper than it is but i tested it and took alot of advice before i started it and got some of the lads from my local club to have a look and they said it was fine PJ

Rad

i used insolation foam for my incline i found that i got a better effect to make a rock face or just a hill. Try with different things to make the incline im not and expert by any means hooe it goes well good look.   

[SteveM6]

Your layout looks good Steve

Metcalfe's models, platforms and walls are everywhere  ;o)

PJ

that wall to the right (which is the long incline to the top level) is made from embossed plastic sheets but I did use the latest Metcalfe walls and their builder sheets elsewhere.

[SteveM6]

/media/tinymce_upload/image98.jpg

View of the station area on my N gauge layout, 'Shaddeholme and West Orton'.

 

Are those semaphores RTR or hand built Steve.

 

Regardless in N gauge they are a work of art. Far beyond the reacjh of my tired eyes and stiff old fingers.

The signals are by Ratio (plastic kit) or P&D Marsh (white metal) but I did add handrails made from very thin wire, very thin track pins and some etched brass. And also added etched brass ladders as they are much finer than the white metal ones supplied. 

And I too have tired eyes and stiff old fingers but I see that as part of the challenge in N gauge! lol

[Buz]

/media/tinymce_upload/DSC00284_copy.jpg

Hi all

Pretty much the whole layout

all 4'6" square of it right i'll grab the 720 bus home

regards John

[96RAF]

@Steve

May look at those signals as I mainly run 60's stuff, although for operability I prefer shiny lights.

00 gauge is almost a step too far for me but I press on regardless.

N gauge would definitely defeat me.

I'm beginning to wish I had started out in 1:1, although I couldn't pick up their big old spanners nowadays. I had enough trouble torquing things up to 800Nm 10 years ago (150 lbs pull on a 4 ft spanner for English Money users)

[RB51]

 

Hi all

Pretty much the whole layout

all 4'6" square of it right i'll grab the 720 bus home

regards John

Nothing much wrong with that John. You have plenty of detail there and nicely put together. R-

[Buz]

 

Hi all

Pretty much the whole layout

all 4'6" square of it right i'll grab the 720 bus home

regards John

Nothing much wrong with that John. You have plenty of detail there and nicely put together. R-

Thanks for the kind words still a lot of work to do working on the village off layout at the moment.

There is always that little extra thing that can be added.

The bus on the bridge is a 720 ;-)

Up untill late 1972 it would have taken me home which is why I bought it.

I have to work out how and where I am going to get a totaly flat English church to go on the backscene

behind the village the rest will just be a simple blue painted board.

regards John

[PJ_model_trains]

Hi Buz

Your layout is well thought out and as Roger says plenty of detail.

It is also very tidy, above and below the layout  ;o)

Well done

PJ

[96RAF]

Not flat but its an English Church and I'm sure you could fettle it to suit.

http://www.wordsworthmodelrailway.co.uk/townscene.html

St Michaels just down th epage a bit.

[2e0dtoeric]

I've posted pics of mine on here before, in a different thread. Not much to look at, yet, just track on bare boards, with some structures scattered, whicle I make sure it looks right. (It doesn't) and it all works (so far it does).

I was intending to re-post them, but it looks as though I'll have to re-take them first, as the originals have quietly vanished into the computer black hole!

Found them on photobucket -

http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee160/2e0dtoEric/railwayleft2014_zps2a2c7c7b.jpg

 

http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee160/2e0dtoEric/railwayright2014_zps284c9a36.jpg

 

if that works.

[Buz]

/media/tinymce_upload/DSC00267_copy.jpgHi Buz

Your layout is well thought out and as Roger says plenty of detail.

It is also very tidy, above and below the layout  ;o)

Well done

PJ

Not guilty its about 97% C J Freezer planned the plan suprisingly being expanded into the space I had avalable

allowing the adition of a passing loop and extra siding at loco.

The layout being reasonably tidy underneath is all down to the domestic authorities she found the mini wheely bins that all the usefull bits are kept in underneath handy but out of the way and tidy. 

The mess on the transformer controler table is all me ;-(

My favorite detail  set piece is Fred and Bert siting by the fire drum having a cuppa OK its a bit gimmiky given the glowing drum but I like it.

Still needs the Boss looking at his watch and the bosses office but I will get there.

The facia boards will eventualy be painted a very borng grey colour to focus attention on whats on top

I think its easy to guess which bit of railway modeling I like best and like to thimk I am good at ;-)

regards John

[Buz]

Not flat but its an English Church and I'm sure you could fettle it to suit.

http://www.wordsworthmodelrailway.co.uk/townscene.html

St Michaels just down th epage a bit.

Ideal there is a nice side on picture in the kit that should do the job might have to adjust the size of the picture as it is an instruction  picture I think but its just the thing.that is needed

Might even slightly layer it up for a very semi detailed efect as it will be only cm from full 3D buildings

regards John

[CURRENTLY_UN_NAMED]

Hello there,

Here is a link to my website where I put updates of the progress of my layout as they come.

http://www.multipleunit.co.uk/sections/multiple-unit-railways

Please also feel free to have a look around the website, and if you like what you see, please contribute, instructions on how to are on the website itself.