walkingthedog
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Everything posted by walkingthedog
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Straight on the ply for me. Good solid flat hard base for the track.
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I don't wet the ballast. I don't use a spray. Do you need a brush for what? I use a brush to tidy up the edges. Ballasting is very easy and I find it quite therapeutic.
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By the way you'll get plenty of other suggestions.
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Apply the ballast to the track dry, be careful on points, don't get it in the way of moving parts. Once it is where you want it apply a mixture of PVA/water with a drop of washing up liquid. I mix it 20 parts pva to 80 of water. Drip the mixture on to the ballast with a pippete or eye dropper. It should spread through the ballast, that's what the washing up liquid is for. Leave it to dry. The stronger the mixture the quicker it drys. A weaker mixture takes a bit longer but drys like toffee not concrete, easier to remove if necessary. I use one of these. Very cheap. /media/tinymce_upload/5801ba9453465761fec2a6fd6196c0ba.JPG
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PVA craft glue is what you need. Wood glue does the same job but is more expensive.
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Ringfield motor to cd player motor conversion
walkingthedog replied to dynax's topic in General Discussion
Thanks but as the post is over 2 years old hopefully the motor is fitted and running by now. 😆 -
No. DCC loco run perfectly on a DC layout as long as DC running hasn't been turned off, can't think of the correct word, on the decoder. Almost all new DCC locos will run.
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There is absolutely no problem with mixing the track. I mainly use Peco (no need to put P*co), but do have several pieces of Hornby.
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And everything on the board jumps up and down .
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Have a look on line for a jewellers hammer.
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I agree with you. These are the same people who swear they have a black and white TV and never use a bank card. I guess if they have surgery they bite on a piece of leather instead of having an anaesthetic. 😆
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Press them in with the end of some pliers. Use Gaugemaster pins they are very sharp and have perfectly flat heads like me. I have never used a hammer.
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It is very important that track is laid on a perfectly flat surface so lay the track first then add the ballast..
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With a brush.
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Yes and always cut/unsolder the speaker off from the speaker end not the decoder end.
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Don't think many people fit working lamps on steam locos, they are very dim and not used as headlights, and of course should be moved depending on what train is being pulled.
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Don't think it can be the earlier tender drive if the tender works on its own Sarah.
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Expansion gaps definitely. Soldering track together definitely not. Normal practice is to put track pins in the centre. Pre wired fishplates not ideal but if you are happy with them that is your vhoice.
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My bet is still the wheels. Were they removed? Are you saying the tender moves along on its own but stops with the loco attached?
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Thought I was losing it Chris. 😮
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I missed the bit about the rebuild. As Rog has stated a set of wheels has probably been refitted the wrong way round.
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Graham none of us have any connection with Hornby so we know just as much as you do regarding delivery dates I'm afraid.
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Generally it is thought to be better to use a completely separate power supply for points etc.
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Think it was Antique Roadshow. Guys grandfather made the plaques for Mallard. He made three and was told he could keep the spare if my memory serves me right.
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Pictures posted by members with only a few posts usually have to be checked by Admin who works 9-5 MON-FRI, which seems to be a reasonable thing to do. You can contact him and ask if he will allow instant picture posting.