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High Fell, BR (NER) in TT 120


Rallymatt

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I’m sure you will be fine. A comment of the reversing loop, getting the gaps in the rails is important, I don’t rely on insulating rail joiners, a good 1mm gap and perfectly in line is reliable. Also the solid state rather than relay operated modules work best I have found, I’m using a Lenz one, perfect

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Found these essential accessories especially for anyone modelling steam era. EBay, inexpensive and nicely printed. Painting is fiddly but they were usually all red (not black brackets as ‘restorers’ do) The risk of sparks and hot ashes setting something alight was a common thing… even in the North where it rains a lot! forum_image_63e8f5f243870.thumb.png.9e5763fb2219ca291700cd533d370737.pngforum_image_63e8f5f7b10b5.thumb.png.f9eedfca8923f58b40ca7fe24cd43410.pngforum_image_63e8f5fb8c4ba.thumb.png.faee449cc9e80510543f2293049a85bd.png

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I’m sure you will be fine. A comment of the reversing loop, getting the gaps in the rails is important, I don’t rely on insulating rail joiners, a good 1mm gap and perfectly in line is reliable. Also the solid state rather than relay operated modules work best I have found, I’m using a Lenz one, perfect

 

 

Yes I'm OK with reverse loops, I had one on my previous layout. I found Peco IRJs much better than Hornby as they are a bit more rigid and therefore easier to work with. My RLM is also solid state, Block Signalling. It works faultlessly.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Some updates at goings on at High Fell. Some very rudimentary videos are up on YouTube as HighFell of running sessions, and

some stills of progress in general. It’s mainly scenery, bushes are in full growth mode with lots of Gorse and general bushy greenery. The line staff have been getting speed limit signs and the gradient posts up. Note that the main line sections have been cleared for 100 mph running as part of High Fell’s status as an evaluation line. There was a reason for the adoption of light signalling. The builders have been hard at work making a small loading dock next to the goods shed. An hour or so with some left over card, paint and glue. Next on the list is getting in with scenic section at the base of Telegraph Hill. Mesh is in and a single lightweight layer of plaster cloth is drying as I type.

I’m quite pleased with how the valley floor under Twizzle Viaduct has turned out, I’m trying to capture the rugged North East fell landscape during late spring early summer where the everything is lush and quite green. One of the advantages of TT 120 is the extra space for scenic details or for me, the ability to give an impression of open landscape. forum_image_63f4f4f610400.thumb.png.ef85c5707545ea2f97af0fc9c7d30e1c.pngforum_image_63f4f4fd14b78.thumb.png.8ab411051decef21ed27761dfa02042a.pngforum_image_63f4f50279e0a.thumb.png.456cb010132d09991da977969a55c930.pngforum_image_63f4f50734a4e.thumb.png.2c6cfe6186d798cd58dbf176b3ebd0fb.pngforum_image_63f4f50c06449.thumb.png.51d8e9600f5f1d4c824da3d3fab8ebdb.pngforum_image_63f4f511622bd.thumb.png.687df4ae9c5a3825305375402d9d485d.png

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Thanks Patrick, and my latest German import has arrived and is superb! I put a (not superb) YT video up to capture the running and sound.

So far all the track weathering is all done but I did think about a bit more along the ballast on the main lines, I am undecided, easy to put on harder to take off! I want to give an impression of upgrading work being done to the main lines recently so ballast looks quite ‘clean’ maybe a light coasting of brake dust?

I enjoy being the detail to the different parts so they are mini scenes within the whole layout, it’s all about telling a story 😁

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Thanks Steve, the back drop scenes are a pair of Gaugemaster ones for N, they are 240mm tall and the 3mm ply I used is 300mm so it mounts to the baseboard frame. I tried a OO, it looked terrible! I also didn’t get on at all with the special back scene adhesive from Deluxe materials, absolutely not worth the money and it causes the paper to stretch and bubble even though it’s recommended. I had to abandon the glue as it was so bad and used double sided tape to try and salvage something half presentable. There is a section that took a bit of a mauling but that was when I decided to extend layout, it needs a bit of touching up.

If I was doing it again, I may still but with same scene, I’d probably use photo spray mount

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Very kind of you to say so, I spent quite a while looking for the right back drop as I had a good idea how the baseboard scenery would look. Then a case of matching similar features and colours. It’s come together quite well. Using a landscape rather than buildings has made it more convincing and going small forces the perspective. And trees! 😁

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Did some more scenic work below Telegraph Hill, my first venture in scenic water, a yet to be name tarn is forming from the stream that will run down Telegraph hill, passengers will get a great view of the spectacular Co Durham countryside. A Few posed shots, one showing the passing loop in action as 60004 storms past the Durham bound refrigerated freight.

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Thanks for the lovely comments, I’m delighted it’s getting people inspired. People always tell me a model Railway is an expensive hobby… some bits are but there are loads of things that are very inexpensive and fun to do 😁

The viaduct is the Metcalfe N scale one, this is two kits together. First version of High Fell had a single brick viaduct kit but the extra length added to layout (just under 1m) meant I could go big!

Anyone new to building Metcalfe card kits, patience, read the instructions carefully at least twice, paint card edges before some assembly and Rocket Card Glue is about the best adhesive I have found for them. Ohhh and some decent craft knives with different blades (Hobbycraft, 16pc Knife Kit £10)

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I'd agree with @Rallymatt about the Rokit pva glue. It sticks like nothing and quick about it, too. I've been card modelling for about 60 years now, and it's one of the reasons I started with TT120 so that I can get some serious architecture done! As Matt says, your craft knife is a very important part of your modelling kit, but be aware that your blade goes blunt very quickly. I'll probably use 3 or 4 blades for each building; I now buy the snap-off blade type - Hobbycraft do a good quality one - but they are, to be honest, a bit more dangerous!

Which is why I've not been making much progress this week because I've sliced off the top of my left middle finger.

Oh, and get yourselves a Maun Safety Ruler!

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